Ally's progress.

[MadMike]

The Mains!!! "Remember The Main" I think it was a Battle Ship ;D ;D

[81pumagtc]

Ask Kenn...I think he served...




Dave

[dansam]

Ah the mains.... I need to check what I have in there now. So whats used at hwy speeds? Im thinking of leaning hwy for mileage and upping the mains for poke.

[dansam]

Took for a test drive and noticed it hits 60mph in second VERY nice.

[vw1s]

Oct 7, 2010 11:42:38 GMT -5 dansam said:

Which one is the one used for full throttle??

Right foot!

Your idles are good up to 2500-3000, then your mains come in, up to about 5000-6000, then your air correction jets will take over from there.
If it is popping, it's probably lean, now just pay attention to where the popping is in the RPM range.
If it feels "sluggish", it is probably rich, again, what rpm?
What do your plugs look like? Let it idle for a while, then check them, if they are black and sooty, your idle jets are too big, and you are running rich, if white or grey, idles jets are too small and you are running lean. Tan, just right.
Now, take it for a drive, somewhere that you can stop after a 4000+ RPM romp, as you want to check your plugs with as little idle time as possible to muddy the results. Get the car under load in at least 2nd gear, take it to 4000 RPM's or more, try to take it at least 1/4 mile before shutting it down (remember, no idleing), pull the plugs again, this time you will be determining your main jet size.
I'm guessing you will want to be in the 60-65 range on idles, and 155-160 ish on mains. Good luck!

[MadMike]

I only have 55 idles in my 44's for a 2332cc and 50's in the 40's 1641 But if those carbs were bought used jets could have been drilled ::)Dan the idles are on the side of the carbs just below the fuel inlet,Madmike

[dansam]

Nah the jets in there now are new ones I put in a bit ago (id have to pop em to tell you the #'s I forget other than I think I went with the #'s Mad Mike gave me. The car pops every once in a while but only at idle (I know idle mixture screw procedure) feel good on accel but around 4000-5000 rpm on full accel it (at times! not always) feels like it has a small slowdown like it ran outa fuel for a sec. It frankly runs so well overall and has even been running pretty cool so Im thinking of letting it be for a bit. Maybe after the color tour Ill play.

It drives so fast I think I could charge a fee for rides ;D I took one guy for a ride and he said it was totally unexpected power and a little scary It was what I was going for

[dansam]

Well its that time again! Time to pull the motor and chase leaks.

Stuff to install. CB breather, OE oil pressure regulator springs, cool wheel cylinder self bleeders, misc seals, and ...... a jet doctor for the IDF's to fix the low speed idle ports that keep getting dirty.


Time to pull the beast


and pull



AND PULL



Man ae we done yet?



Almost there



Done!!



Howd this happen? I took it out before removing the motor??



Hmmmm



SHoulda bought a see through yellow cap



Crap was made in the USA whattuya expect Hmph That was an expensive MSD cap that lasted like one season !!

Been here before Dejavue all over again.

[81pumagtc]

Dan:

Is that oil I see in the bell housing?

Dave

[dansam]

yup

[81pumagtc]

Dan:

Yuck. Any idea where it was coming from? Rear main?


Dave

[dansam]

Yea Im hoping rear main. Will confirm once the flywheel is off. But Im thinking 80 psi of oil pressure any time I was over 2000 rpm will cause a rear main to flip. Ive allready replaced the HiPo regulator springs and pistons back to stock. Also the bigger better breather will help as well. Im expecting no more gushing of oil. Though Im hedging my bets by installing the 4 puck clutch so that even if it still leaks (and I dont commit harry carry) Ill still have a clutch that doesnt slip.

[dansam]

Transmission is out and ready to send in to fix the 2nd gear syncro.

[dansam]

AHA!!!!!!!!!! I figured out the mystery of the Ally Valdese!!! It took some oil dye and an industrial black light I borrowed from work. I was flashing it one the back (front?) of the motor after taking out the flywheel and finding I destroyed yet another clutch !! and well I did see a little oil in the rear main area but not the quantity I saw from under the veh. Plus it did not explain the drenched clutch. Well I started looking at the fittings. The two small ones no glow and you could see the sealant in the threads. Then I got to this large fitting I never really payed much attention to before. It was GLOWING... Hmmm maybe should take out and reseal. Well turns out the fitting was finger tight AND had NO sealant on it!!! WELL WELL WELL,,,, So I resealed and tightened up and I think that along with the high oil pressure (fixed with the new stock oil pressure regulator springs/pistons) aught to put a stop to that. Im still going to put the 4 puck clutch in though just in case ..... I am also still replacing the rear main cuz Im there.

Pics of the culprit



This is after the repair.



another clutch bites the dust...




lower right was what I believe to be the leaker.



Oh well. Fix and move on...

[81pumagtc]

Congrats! Is it a pipe thread, or a coarse thread?

It's important for the type of sealant. Pipe thread sealant, usually with Teflon, work when the sealant is crushed between the threads. As it is compressed, it seals.

Coarse thread sealant works entirely differently. It actually hardens to form the seal.

Pipe thread is easy. Coarse thread is usually not readily stocked except at the distributor level. If you need some, I have it, and you are certainly welcome to it.


Dave