ZDDP

[drwingtipshoes]

Aug 11, 2010 9:48:31 GMT -5 SplashBug said:

Have run Splash for 10 years and 45000 miles. All with HD 30. I change oil every 2500-3000 miles. I have seen multigrade and synthetic seem to thin at high temps and leak more. Mike

That's good enuf for me....

These d**n things DO run hot, after all.

[ghiastein]

Aug 11, 2010 9:48:31 GMT -5 SplashBug said:

Have run Splash for 10 years and 45000 miles. All with HD 30. I change oil every 2500-3000 miles. I have seen multigrade and synthetic seem to thin at high temps and leak more. Mike

WOW I am impressed!!!!!

[teamafx]

Thats good! I am using QS HD30 and I didn't know better I guess I will just stick with what I have been using.

[81pumagtc]

Dan

Aug 11, 2010 9:48:31 GMT -5 SplashBug said:

Have run Splash for 10 years and 45000 miles. All with HD 30. I change oil every 2500-3000 miles. I have seen multigrade and synthetic seem to thin at high temps and leak more. Mike

Maybe Ally just needs different oil! She might just be running a little warm and that's when she dribbles?


Dave (I am such an a$$) Riedle

[dubfreak1]

Changed the oil in the 68 this morning. I used 2-1/2 qts of Partsmaster 10W30 full synthetic and 4oz of Lucas 10063. This should be around 2100 ppm of ZDDP plus any that might have been in the oil. I am trying to get information on the oil, but haven't gotten specs for it yet. While this may seem like too much additive for an engine that is broken in, there may be excess detergents in the oil counteracting some of it. Just going to try it and see what happens. The cost of this oil change is about 1/2 what the Joe Gibbs Oil in my 72 cost.

I have no method to measure any positive effects, but will see if it at least avoids any negative ones.

[bren]

I have not tried synthetic. My only experience with it was when John used it going to Effingham one year. It got too thin and leaked bad. He had the oil changed back to 'regular' oil and no more leak.
I will be interested in hearing how it works in the '68.

[dubfreak1]

I've been using synthetic in everything since the mid 80's. Even the lawnmower and snowblower have synthetic in them. There was a big difference in wear on the main bearings after a season of Autox in my Solo Vee. My bugs all do leak. Don't know if it would be less with conventional oil.

[doghare]

Hello Vloks folks -
I'm a stocking Brad Penn supplier here in West Michigan.
Why use additives when you can use the real thing.
Quality break-in oil, straight weights & the multi-viscosity.
Motor oil has changed significantly since '04 & '07
The quality starts with the base stocks & blending a full compliment of ZDDP providing outstanding anti-scuffing protection. Brad Penn is thermally stable, free of asphalt constituents & has naturally high viscosity. Also, Brad Penn was the first ISO 9002 certified refinery in the US tracing base stocks from the wellhead to the finished product. Its all done in house assuring quality. I offer volume discounts and will deliver.
E-mail or give me a call anytime.
[e-mail]
616-929-8798

[bren]

Local speed shop carries this: www.cam-shield.com

[dubfreak1]

It is a moving target! It is time to change the oil in the 72 Bug so I looked for any new information. The MSDS for this formulation is dated June 2013. Looks like it is specifically designed for us:

www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/dt50-synthetic-15w-50html/

[81pumagtc]

I actually talked with a Joe Gibbs guy about the oil last year...ran into him at a gas station. He was driving a big truck that had Driven all over it.

He said that leakage was a problem with air-cooled motors and synthetics. It worked great, but the size of the oil molecule was always the same, and it was considerably smaller than a conventional oil...hence, more leakage.

I was in the Pig of Plastic, and was using the Valvoline. Just found out that my local auto parts store stocks Brad Penn, and I will use that as soon as the snow goes away...

Have to have the new drop spindles installed in a few weeks, don't want to drive it until then.


Dave

[dubfreak1]

.

Apr 4, 2014 22:23:21 GMT -5 81pumagtc said:

I actually talked with a Joe Gibbs guy about the oil last year...ran into him at a gas station. He was driving a big truck that had Driven all over it.

He said that leakage was a problem with air-cooled motors and synthetics. It worked great, but the size of the oil molecule was always the same, and it was considerably smaller than a conventional oil...hence, more leakage.

I was in the Pig of Plastic, and was using the Valvoline. Just found out that my local auto parts store stocks Brad Penn, and I will use that as soon as the snow goes away...

Have to have the new drop spindles installed in a few weeks, don't want to drive it until then.


Dave

Dave, why are you changing from Valvoline? Especially if you don't want to use synthetic. The conventional Valvoline VR-1 for street use has good ZDDP levels. If you use synthetics, only the 20W50 for street use has the higher ZDDP level. Am I missing something?

I plan on using Valvoline VR-1 in the Super because it gets driven a fair amount and Joe Gibbs in the 72 that is only driven a couple of times a year.  The additive for storage is what appeals to me in the Joe Gibbs oil

BTW, my experience is that synthetics do leak more than conventional oils, but don't leak in engines that are dry otherwise.  I have both.  Still plan on VR-1 in the lawn mowers too!

Rudy

[MadMike]

I had VR-1 in a NEW 1915 and in 5 miles wore out the cam and dished most of the lifters (look to see if it is rated SM oil)
Any motor with double valve /HD singles springs use I Brad Penn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stock Single springs can get away with smaller amounts of ZDDP

[dubfreak1]

The spec sheet reads good on the VR-1, but it is SM rated. ? Maybe I better put the Joe Gibbs in the Super also instead of "cheaping out"

[clintonddk]

I use Brad Penn. Its the old green Kenndale.This reminds me, I need to get some more.