greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Jan 30, 2013 21:49:11 GMT -5
Yeah, ouch! Thats a bit pricey and I would still have to fab quite a bit anyhow. Probably wouldnt have much of a chance of finding the parts from a good donor vehicle either.
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Post by Dustin on Jan 30, 2013 21:50:34 GMT -5
Most likely no, However you could go see Herman @ Barnums Bug Barn in Millington and poke around. You may get lucky.
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Post by bren on Jan 30, 2013 23:27:37 GMT -5
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 1, 2013 21:56:19 GMT -5
I hadnt seen this thread but definitely the same path I am on with mine. Nice job by the way! I can appreciate the work that you put in. I would like to make a trip out to Barnums, if nothing else just to see it. I will most likely be making another trip to Perry in the very near future.
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dansam
1600dp
Posts: 2,434
Joined: Oct 25, 2008 7:23:39 GMT -5
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Post by dansam on Feb 1, 2013 23:20:41 GMT -5
Keep truckin. You might as well get all the metal work done this winter then paint in begining of spring and then the rest can be done within a month or so. It could actually be done before the Kalamazoo show if you keep this up.
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 4, 2013 20:32:16 GMT -5
The welding is done on the pans. Added seam sealer and some chassis paint on the areas I worked on.
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 4, 2013 20:33:16 GMT -5
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 4, 2013 20:35:00 GMT -5
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 4, 2013 20:39:12 GMT -5
Cut what was left of the old heater channels out and rolled the chassis underneath the body. I am going to drop it down and see what pieces I will need to fab when I weld the new channels in.  |
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dansam
1600dp
Posts: 2,434
Joined: Oct 25, 2008 7:23:39 GMT -5
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Post by dansam on Feb 5, 2013 6:45:20 GMT -5
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet
The pan looks better than mine now. One day Ill reweld them but not now.
Cant wait to see you cutting on the body.
Keep it up and you might have a driver by summer then we can cruise the shows.
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Post by bren on Feb 5, 2013 18:29:40 GMT -5
Judging by your work I am sure you know this but....
Test those doors real well before you weld. It is easy to end up with a door that sags.
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 6, 2013 12:05:29 GMT -5
My door gap has opened up at the bottom since I had put it up on the saw horses. I am hoping that it will straighten back up when I get it back down on the pan.
Before I started working on the car the doors were and still are to far forward on both sides and I wanted to ask if there are usually some type of shim at the hinge to move the doors back towards the jamb?
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Post by Dustin on Feb 6, 2013 21:02:36 GMT -5
The door gap is always tighter at the front. If the doors don't line back up when you drop it down weld another brace in on the bottom with a turnbuckle in it. That will allow you to dial in the gaps before welding.
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greenhog
40hp
Posts: 57
Joined: Jan 1, 2013 21:05:38 GMT -5
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Post by greenhog on Feb 7, 2013 19:23:18 GMT -5
ok, thanks! I did drop it down on the pan and the gap at the jamb did seem to be parallel again but is quite a bit larger than the gap at the front. Is there any general dimensions I should be seeing at these gaps? I probably only have a .060" gap at the front.
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Post by Dustin on Feb 7, 2013 23:20:20 GMT -5
I've found the door jamb dimensions online before somewhere. I think I stumbled on it in a random search years ago. I'm sure someone on the samba has the specs and a way to move your door back.
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