Ally's progress.

[vwrick69]

NICE!!!! Looks like a plumbing nightmare.

[dansam]

;D Well now Im adding the wiring for the nitro so It looks worse Still its all pretty strait forward once you start tracing lines. A lot of what you see is either regular wiring (sensors/alternator/coil and such) the breather tubes, and finally the fuel and nitro lines which I admit are all over. Space it the main problem (there aint a lot of it!) Plus Im going with a more complicated nitro setup for safety (fuel pressure shutoff sensor and 4 injectors with 4 solinoids 3/8 fuel line and duel fuel pressure regulators) it may be a tad overkill but the system was designed for a much larger hit than Im going to use and it was a good deal. Its a lot safer for the motor than a simpler setup as long as I dont botch the wiring (and I wont). Solinoids are now wired up and tested (loud by the way) all the fuel and nos lines are run with the exception of the lines to the injectors (should arrive wed or so). Today Im wrapping exhaust with heat wrap and trying to strap some 2" flex tube to the j tubes for a temp heater setup. Who knows it may work. Im going to have a boat vapor fan hooked into the passenger side heater vent sucking air and piping it through the flex tubes that will be clamped to the j tubes then pipe that hot air through the drivers side vent. So it should be a recirculating system. If it works I wont have to spend big bucks on a heater system that is big enought to handle what Ive got going on. If it does not work next year Ill spend big bux on a new exhuast which Im not really excited about, it may be cheaper to get one of those gas heaters Ive seen but never trusted...

[dansam]

Ok todays work...

So one of my goals this winter is to introduce heat while not strangling the exhaust. So I had this idea of some flex exh and making a recirculating system while keeping my original hipo exh intact. See what you think?

[MadMike]

Hey Dan,I'm a bit skeptic about the heater system ;D and do keep a close eye on the header under that wrap ,I've pulled it off on a header here and to find all the tubes rusted away That stuff works in Tuson Az, not in humid Michigan my 2 cents ;D,MadMike

[dansam]

Well while I do agree with you on the rust thing, I just dont care. When it rusts out (3 years so far and no holes) Ill replace the whole system, It came with my original motor and while it does the job Im not in love with it. As for the heater deal, either it works or it does not. In theory it should work. We shall see

[dansam]

Well the good fight continues. I installed all the Nos and fuel lines after I install the missing fittings. Huzza! So I say to myself, and the car,, it is now time to put the engine back in!!! Yea!!! Well then I have some fitment issues in regards to the New truss bar I installed. It is obviously set up for a standard type exh (like the one I want to install next year. It hits the current annoying exh that I have no Idea as to the thought process behind it being so narrow.I spent hours moving the truss bar around as in as possible so it does not hit the exh and thereby keeping the engine from going in. This it turns out is a major problem..... as the car needs the truss bar to aleviate the hopping problem on full acceleration the is so violent it pops the car out of gear! Im thinking of getting a new header system that is more standard (IE wider). This could delay things a week or so.... Ever forward, faster, stronger, and sadly more expensive Need to search the web for options here.

[MadMike]

Hey Dan,Are u talking about the Berg style traction bar that hooks to the fenders? A truss bar ties the shock towers together and have two adjustable down bars that bolt to the frame horns for down pressure I had one on the drag bug ,see if Poomwhatever still has it if he's around? it was a decent BugPack one, stopped the hopping,shouldn't
pop out of gear if u have solid mounts and a mid-mount, I still use a stock front mount ,Madmike

[dansam]

Yea I have the bugpack truss bar setup that I recently installed. It fits the car real well and looks like it will work. I also have the mid mount and will also put a ratchet strap around the transmission. The mid mount really helped, but the car still hops alot and I feel that this will fix it so I really want to keep the truss bar on. BUT....It looks like it does Not like my exhaust setup as the J tubes which for whatever moronic reason practically hug the forks, This is preventing engine installation with the truss bar which actually hits the j tubes! The more I think of it my current exhaust system must make the engine run hotter as they run under the engine nearer to the fins! Im kinda fed up with this exhaust that I inherited from the P.O. I bought a new one that will arrive in 7-10 days. This new system will fix the current issue as it runs along the stock exhaust path right under the heads instead if nearer to the middle of the motor. It is also ceramic coated. I really did not want to spend this money this year but it seems it needs to be done. It will be interesting to see what effect it has on the engine temp. Also it will be interesting to make my current muffler setup work on this header system as it is a little different. This one is like 70% of the system I was going to buy next year (Ill finish it off later with the heater boxes). Im a bit frustrated as things were moving allong nicely and now Im kinda stuck so I guess I move back to working on the front end as it is too low and hitting into the fenders. Here is the exhaust I have comming.
www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D2009%2D13

[MadMike]

Modifing a VW is so much fun if only parts would 'Bolt Right ON!!!' yea Right ;D My coated empi on the volksrod rubs the corner of the motor even!! WTF ,I Like the Bugpack headers no issues so far,PLEASE try the stinger before u do the mullet thingy again ;D don't waste the gasket just use Hightemp sealer on it,then u can reinstall the mullet,LOL,,Madmike

[dansam]

It does come with the stinger so I may play. But I like about the mullet it is quiet on the hwy.

[MadMike]

QUIET is overated ;D ;D,,I forget what motor/car I had at a show,an entered the loud muffler contest ,thinking it was 2332 with baffle in stinger it would only rev to 5500rpm without 7K+ that was free reving on the road you can feel diff with the 'Butt Dyno" ;D ;D

[dansam]

Yea but when the Mullet is open it is FULL flow. I mean its like an open header, so whats more free flow than that? Its the best of both worlds which was the point of it to begin with.

In other news, Since the back end of the car is off limits for a week or so I decided to revisit the front end which is too low. These Puma adjusters either suck big or Im doing something wrong. Since there is some preload I cant move the adjusters at all so I tryed loosening the bolts that hold the adjusters to the springs and and removed the shocks, now I can move the spindles up and down (with jacks) I still cant move the adjusters. I dont get it at all. I kinda think I may have to disassemble the front end again and am not happy at the thought.

[MadMike]

Ur Mullet isn't full flow don't it set off to the one side? There is something about the Megaphone shape for Harmonic;s?? Just try it ,Sez Mikey!! ;D

[dansam]

Ill try almost anything once, twice if I like it (mikey!)
Still Itd be LOUD. We shall see how loud.

[dansam]

Well the upper adjuster on the "ADJUSTABLE beam" is locked solid (welding error by the manufacturer?) so I adjusted the bottom adjuster to full up and the top one is adjusted to full down (and wont move), but I loosened the spring holding grub screw and after adjusting the bottom one retightened we will see what this does as when the grub screws were both loosened I could actually move the hubs up and down like designed. I still think I may need to remove and repair I wont know till the engine is in and running for a test drive. That wont be for a bit. Thinking of calling CB and voiceing my displeasure with their product. May have to dissasemble the beam and break loose the upper adjuster.