Dans building a 2276 big ol motor

[jbrandt01]

There is a reason it is in your budget, go to the feedback forums and read about importmotor. Having a 2+ liter that struggles to make the same power as a good 1776 isn't really that great of a deal.

[vw1s]

Sept 10, 2009 21:37:50 GMT -5 dansam said:

Whatcha think of this???

Its in budget....

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=674485

Sorry but, just going by the ad, I wouldn't trust that engine any further than I could throw it! Sounds like the promises GEX and MOFOCO used to make! DON'T BELIEVE THE HYPE!!!

Seriously, if you want a nice running engine, with some decent power, and still be streetable, you should collect the parts, or buy a kit, and assemble, or have someone else assemble them for you. There are plenty of guys in the club that could help, including myself. This will insure that you know what is inside that mill behind you that sucks in dollars and spits out fun!
I think you are on the right track, displacement wise, 2-2.1L, but it's up to you to decide the final product, it's your budget!

[ghiastein]

Hello my name is AJ and I too have purchase from GEX

NEVER AGAIN
I learned my lesson back in 1999

But in my defense I was 20, naive and cheep


Sorry I don't know much about turbos or high HP motors but I do know that it cost $$$$ to go fast.

You have to pay to play

[jbrandt01]

FWIW, Mofoco has totally turned around and makes a d**n good engine and stands behind it. The company changed leadership a while back and shifted from a mass rebuilder to actually making quality engines because somebody had the insight to realized constantly churning out crap was huring them more than losing a few cheapskate customers.

[dansam]

Well I found a hella deal on some awsome heads and case. The case/heads are cut for 82mm stroker crank and 94 pistons (dont start Im doing this!!) It was professionally done and Ive done some checking on this stuff. Its a primo expensive deal. Not that this is the cheap way to go. But Im gunna build a monster street motor. Ive found a nice crank and Im gunna get some mahl 94 piston/cyl setup. Ill put in a lightweight flywheel and hipo clutch. Ill probably sell my duel carb setup and go duel weber. Ill be paying for the heads and case soon then Ill give you the details. till then Im mum. It is VERY cool and done buy a well known guy.

[dansam]

Ok just bought two totally pimped out heads done by Clyde Berg (Gene Bergs son) and a case cut for a 82 mm crank and 94mm pistons (package deal). I am syked. They are finishing the machining as we speak... described as

set of heads 94mm 40x35 ss fresh from Clyde Berg's for a head job, 040 casting 2br brasilian, dual springs, Replaced worn guide's, 3 angle valve job, blasted and clean, Ported and Polished. full guide's not cut down... combustion chamber unshrouded.

So It will take a little bit to recover from this purchas but in a month or two Ill get the crank 82mm forged, cylinders/piston set (mahl), cam and lightend lifters, and all the rest of the misc. This is gunna be fun. Hope to start building in december, or before.

Might eventually buy a kit like this

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=713174


Dan

[clintonddk]

Here is another hell of a deal on some turbo stuff. The header alone is $300.00 dollars and I am sure that the wastgate is over $200.00, I know because I have one. Check it out.

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=848223

[dansam]

Well that certainly is a hellova deal. Two problems.

1. Allready bought my 2276 heads and block. So we are going big. Big wad of money allready spent : (

2. They aint delivering so Id have to go to Va. No thanks. Plus who knows how well this setup will work or if there are problems with it?

Nope going big. Got the heads and block on the way, going to use brothers VW internals kit


Brothers VW Stroker Engine Kit 2276 2110 Price: $815.00
BROTHERS VW MACHINE SHOP STROKER ENGINE KIT

2276cc

comes with:

- Mahle 90.5mm/94mm Pistons and Cylinders Kit

- BVW Chromoly Gland Nut

- BVW 78mm/82mm Forged Counter-Weight Crank

- BVW 5.4" Forged I-Beam Connection Rods with ARP 8740 Bolts

- Engle W120 Performance Cam

- BVW Heavy Duty Lifters

- CB Performance 3/8"/0.058" Chromoly Pushrods

- Elring German/American Gasket Kit

- Schadek 26mm or 30mm Oil Pump (using 26mm for my motor I here 30 is too big)

- Mahle Main Bearings

- Mahle Rod Bearings

- Mahle Double Thrust Cam Bearings

- Only $815.00 a kit! + 75.oo shipping.

SO..... Ill order this stuff end of october or so.

THEN will need webber carbs, oil cooler/remote filter setup (id like to set up a fan setup as well. Some misc tin, lightened flywheel and performance clutch kit.

And a lot of luck and time...

But thanks for looking out for me I appreciate it.

Dan

[MadMike]

Hey Dan,Good choise on the 2276,Great cam,no need to rev to the moon all power is in by 6k,Remember RPM= Ruins Peoples Motors ;D I would ask if their so called forged Crank is China?and machined here?? I prefer DPR or DeMello's Both use German Cores and Never Had a problem, The doghouse cooler Is all you need But do full flow w/filter and a deep sump is a must I have a 4qt on the 2332 8-)I use 44 IDF's and the spanish ones are good if you can't find Italians,Also 38 vents wake'em up ;D Cheaper then Turbo ;D Good luck on the build and wait until u drive it ;D ;D ;DThere faster than a 396 Chvelle/and ANY new so called Muscle Car 'when set up right' Oh and Don't go over clutched/ pressure plate your tranny will thank you,I suggest a stock diaphram type and a good Diakin disc,Madmike

[dansam]

Thanks for the heads up Im going to need all the help I can get on this one! The crank is made in china (I checked) Im not thrilled about that but seems like most Ive checked on are. They swear they are good cranks though.... Hmmm.... Not sure about the machining Ill ask. Allready have the full flow covered. Gotta work on the remote filter. You sure about the doghouse cooler? Been debating the external cooler option. Deep sump is also something Ive been planning on. Still looking at options webber carbs and will need help with jetting ideas when the time comes. Right now Im working with clyde berg and friends on optimal deck hieght due to the work on the heads. Should have the freshly done up heads and block by end of next week. probably wont order the internals till end of october or so. So if ya have deals guys nows the time to hit me up Im with you on the clutch. Ya think the 26mm oil pump is strong enough? I hear anything bigger is redonkulus.

[clintonddk]

If you are running an external oil cooler and filter a 30mm is okay just get the Berg bump cover with the relief spring. I will agree with Mike on the Doghouse cooler. Yes, I think all the one piece cranks are now all made in China its all about who you order them from. A good company will have good quality control.

[MadMike]

26mm pump is all you'll need Do blueprint it: clean up any flaws. Since we don't live it the Hot Tropics you don't need the Xturnal cooler ;D ;D I Drive my DragBug in the Lewiston Cruise, about 30 miles, stock Doghouse cooler, NO FLAPS,or front&rear tin, just stand offs for the deck lid, and did 6k burnouts about every 50 feet my oil temp was getting up there 220-240 All I did was backed off and cruised for a few minutes and they went back to 180-190ish ;D and I'm running 10:1 CR,It will run on 92 octane when I backoff the timing a cpl dgreees,But I run Race gas now @ 30-32 degrees@3k and it likes it ;D Checkout the Cal-look fourms some of the PRA guys are on there and you may get a good deal on a Crank kit??? I've got some great cranks from them

[clintonddk]

Ya see Mike, if you had that external oil cooler you could have continued doing the burnouts and got away with running a 12 to 1 compression ratio

[dansam]

HAHAHAHA

[81pumagtc]

Oil cooler depends on how you plan to use the car. If you plan on driving it fast, continuously, you can get away with doghouse cooler. It's almost impossible to get air in the VW doghouse moving fast enough to cause air movement to the internal oil cooler fail to pass through it. Remember to get a spin balanced and totally welded race fan.

If you are going to be a stoplight hero, I agree with Clinton...blueprint the 30mm oil pump for the extra volume, and use an external oil cooler. Remember, you have to have a fairly high CFM to make them effective. Low pressure works better than high pressure. It has to do with air to oil heat transfer. I always used switched fans if it was not mounted in direct airflow.

Don't believe the hype regarding deep sumps. They really don't make your car run cooler. It takes a bit longer to bring the oil up to temperature, because of the extra oil and metal for the sump, but once everything is up to temperature, the temperature pretty much stabilizes. The "fins" you see on the sumps really don't release a great deal of heat into the air, they are just too thick, and there are not nearly enough of them.

They do, however, contribute to "temporary" cooling in the engine during short term hard acceleration. High horsepower equals high heat, and the more oil you can disperse the heat into the better off you are. Pour two cups of boiling water into a sauce pot of water and it raises the temperature more than if you pour the same amount into a stock pot of water. Eventually, without cooling, it will get very hot, but for short runs, it helps, but it really doesn't help if you drive wide open for 3 miles, instead of a quarter mile.

Also, you do get the advantage of more oil, better dispersion of contaminates, etc with a big sump, which is a huge benefit all by itself, but for street and high-performance driving, not so much cooling.


Dave