Dans building a 2276 big ol motor

[dansam]

But what do you know about the m10 that you have?? Is it in need of a rebuild and does it have that carbon seal in it??? There has to be a way to find out. Im not in a real rush as this will be a winter project for next years cruisin. But I like to get stuff started.

I lost the auction but not by much I was getting excited at the end. Couldnt believe that motor went for only 2175.00 it has like 5000.00 of parts on it. But then again you really never know what you got till youve run it for a month or so. The motor I got in her now is a nice solid 1641 so It would be a fun base to play with a turbo setup and then I can build it up from there. OR may be go big. Did the rebuild thing once and I think playing with a turbo would be hela fun

[dansam]

Ya know I saw a cool way to use the turbo no matter what seal it has on it. I can even keep my twin carb setup. Its a tube along the top that goes to both carbs with rubber spacers that blow into the carbs.....whatcha think?

[vw1s]

That's a good price, but, like you said, you don't know what you are getting.

Yup, a blow through setup is good too. You'll need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to overcome the boost through the carbs. The 1641 would be a great start to a mild build.
I would think you could hit close to 100 streetable HP without problems.


As for the turbo I have, I don't know anything other than it spins freely, and it came from a Mopar.

[dansam]

Explain the reason for the fuel pressure reguator again please?

I'm thinking I need a turbo, oil feed and return lines, rubber tubes (high presure), exhaust set up (I like the lowbudget setup that they sell seperate) and intake tubes and blow off valve. What am I forgetting?

[vw1s]

On a blow through system, the carbs become pressurized under boost, you need to increase fuel pressure as boost increases to overcome the pressure within the carb. Otherwise, boost pressure will be fed back through the fuel system as pressure within the carb increases. For example, if you normally run 3 PSI fuel pressure (most VW carbs don't require any more than that) and you are pushing a peak 6 PSI of boost, you need to increase the fuel pressure by 6 PSI, to 9 PSI total, to overcome the boost pressure trying to push back out through the jets in the carb, and maintain 3 PSI of fuel pressure under FULL boost.

It sounds like you know what you need...with the exception of, a bigger check book for all the speeding tickets!

[Chris]

Whatever you do, I wouldn't recommend draw thru. I had a draw thru setup, and with all of the jet changes and such it was impossible to tune. You don't need a carbon seal in the turbo if you do blow thru either. One key thing is to make sure you are sizing the turbo correctly. Sizing is key. You would want to shoot for around a .42 A/R on the compressor size for a 1600cc engine if not smaller. If the turbo can't spool it won't produce any power. Here is a great regulator to use.

www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=581

I had put everything together for my kit for 1k, but it with a remanufactured turbo. My kit is still being ran to this day.

s147.photobucket.com/albums/r313/67vdubya/?action=view¤t=002-1.jpg

Also, one very important key is getting a locked out distributor. If the timing over advances, or retards, you will blow something up.

Here is a really great link for some of the best information on Turbo VW's around.

www.shoptalkforums.com/viewforum.php?f=3

[dansam]

Thanks for the great sites chris. If I do a turbo I dont want it hanging out. I want it under cover. I really am not sure how you did it for under a 1000!!! I cant seem to do it for that. Too many expensive parts.
Best deal Ive seen on the turbo is for 339.00 ----
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350239826628&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Whatcha think, After that things get expensive. I really want a good exh manifold and Im not sure I can have one fabbed that will be worth a poo and am thinking the lowbudget one might be the way to go but that is like 300.00. Then there is all the trimmings adj fuel pressure regulator 45.00, boost gage 60.00, crank case evac 35.00, silicon boots 60.00, clutch 200.00,

On the other hand I could build a 2110 on the cheap with this kit
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220411340317&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
for 1000.00 but Id still need the 200.00 clutch, hp heads 200.00, plus case work, 200.00
Whatcha all think. Seems spensive either way. But if I do the 2110 I can go turbo later.

[Chris]

I would do the 2110 with turbo later . You can always collect the turbo parts as you go. If I were you I would look for a good used turbo. New ones can be costly, and If they are not, they won't last.

Chris

[dansam]

Ok its official. Im not doing the turbo thing. THis is after alot of reading and lots of opinions. Im going to build one of those scat 2017 stroker motors. Its basically a 1776 kit with a stroker crank. Ill start getting parts soon. I allready have a base motor to work with (the 1600 that originally came with my dune buggy). I may sell the 1641 longblock that is in my bug now after the season is at an end. Its a good strong motor and not stock.

[jbrandt01]

I'd throw more money into heads than just upping displacement. I know a guy that has a 1600 in a rail that puts out 100 horsepower and thats with a single 44IDF. Granted he spent more money doing it than doing a stroker, but all of the parts are essentially the same. He had easily $1500 invested into heads. Nothing saying he can't go ahead and use the heads on a larger displacement engine later.

Now to really throw a wrench in the works... Although the initial cost is higher, have you considered a type 4? If you happen to stumble into a 2.0L thats is already making a reliable 70hp, it might very well become a better starting point.

[81pumagtc]

Usually you have to take a full type 4 car to get a motor at a reasonable price. You can often get runners via Samba for under $1000.

They are great motors, but parts and pieces are MUCH more expensive when building a motor. If it were me, I would look at good heads, port matched manifolds and carbs first. If it is not enough, you can always add a little more displacement later. You notice a bit more power initially, but they usually pull better than just a displacement bump, and last longer as well.

Dave

[dansam]

Oh I was doing big valve heads as well, dont worry. Itll be a runner

[vw1s]

40 X 35.5's on the 2054, d-ports, matched manifolds, 7500+ rpm's, without choking!! Spend a little on the heads, I just saw a pair on The Samba, $440 shipped!

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=843900

They are stock bore, but, that can be changed.

[Ruffuss]

Dan, I have a 2110 in my four (3 1/2 seat) berrien sand rail unstoppable in the sand, pulls on the rear bar wheelies 1st, 2nd and 3rd and bounce the front wheels in fourth. It has 44 IDF webers, match ported heads and manifolds, 044' C/B heads with a port and polish. 110 cam, lubed lifters. Counter weighed crank.
It's hard to scare me but this one comes close. Been together for 8yrs. Was a lot cheaper then, then now, but still don't want my wife to know how much it cost. Anyway.
No problems except for trans-axles and axles. I highly recommend this set-up. Good luck in your search.
Kenn

[dansam]

Whatcha think of this???

Its in budget....

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=674485