1978 FI Bug Vert

[MikeH]

Did some search's on Samba and it's pretty common to paint the fan and shroud inside. I see no reason why the paint should flake off. I prepped the fan with an acid wash and multiple degreasing washes plus treated with Por-15 rust conversion in case I missed anything.

I haven't found paint on my tin or my shroud to ever flake off if it's been prepped properly.

[MikeH]

So why did my engine over heat in the first place (if you were following the original thread) or did it?

I've come to believe that the real problem was a very rusty exhaust that didn't allow the exhaust gases to flow out properly. The paint on the apron directly over the exhaust melted.

I was never certain the engine itself got hot as it wasn't hot to touch. Once I got a new air flow meter installed the over rich condition cleared right up but the hot muffler was still hot. So I don't believe the fuel mixture was ever the issue.

Here's a picture of the exhaust.



Today while waiting for my painted shroud to dry I started to clean up the upper half of my throttle body. This has a variety of things bolted to it normally but it primarily controls the flow of air to the fuel injectors. It also is where the EGR valve releases exhaust gases back into the air stream. Computer controls the EGR valve opening and closing and monitors the position of the butterfly valve (throttle).

Picture of upper throttle body without the EGR stuff.



To better clean it I removed all the EGR crap and low and behold I found this:



About an 1/8 inch hole where the EGR gases enter had eaten through the side. This is a major air leak in the air flow system introducing "unmetered" air. Technically this should produce a too lean mixture and could result in extremely hot exhaust gases. That doesn't jive with the sooty mess I found in the heads. But it can also result in general havoc to the way the engine runs with somewhat unpredictable results.

I never would have found this without unbolting the contraption to clean it. Amazing.

It's been my intention to disable the EGR completely since my new Bugpack exhaust doesn't support it. So off to Harbor Freight for some brazing rods and I'll get that hole repaired.

[MikeH]

Failure on the brazing rods. I can't get the throttle body hot enough. I don't want to reallly fire up the flame, not sure what would happen. Going to have to try something else.

[67type1]

I would clean out the hole with a dremel tool and then use JB Weld to fill it. Most hardware stores & automotive stores carry it. Its important to have a clean surface before using JB Weld.

[MikeH]

My thoughts exactly. Good idea on the dremel. I always forget about that tool in my box and it's so handy.

Did some reading on disabling the EGR on Samba. Seems pretty common thing to do if your not in California and you're running a non-stock exhaust. Seems like the thing to do is disable it, but not remove it.

The computer expects to see it so probably can't remove it completely.

[MikeH]

Throttle body repaired with JB Weld. Injectors stripped and repainted, final paint on shroud, cleaned alternator brushes, polished fuel rail, various pieces parts cleaned and polished.

Test fit. Shroud is binding and won't lower all the way. Can't see what the issue is yet.



Need to put flaps back in after I find the springs and some instructions then can make final fit adjustments.

[67type1]

Mike, your engine is looking really nice! Its got me thinking of pulling mine and cleaning it up a bit

[MikeH]

cleaned, polish and painted injectors and flaps

[MikeH]

dagnabit, have to pull the throttle body back off to get the alternator top brack bolted on. I new I would get the sequence screwed up at least once.

Gonna have to cut a new gasket.

[MikeH]

Having a lot of difficulty with the engine seals. Soap and water isn't getting them to slide easily.

[ghiastein]

Are you running a thermostat? I just noticed that mine in the Bus was adjusted wrong. It was not opening fully when hot just something to double check when you adjust it.

In the past I have fully cleaned out the channel for the engine seal and even spread the little metal "C" channel open a bit. I have found some new seals are actually fatter than the original ones.

[MikeH]

Yea the seals are definitely fatter so opening the c channel is required. Doesn't help that the channels aren't in perfect shape.

I intend to run the thermostat. My current one is completely shot. No hope of restoring it. Hoping to locate one of the newer Mexican ones that is a nice replacement.

www.vw-resource.com/thermostat.html#mexican

[MikeH]

Ray found me this link for a new Mexican thermostat.


www.evwparts.com/volkswagen/Type1CoolingSystem.htmlIt opens at 70C per evwparts.

[ghiastein]

Wow $99.95 for a new original style or $39.95 for the new Mexican style.

I am so glad that I hung on to my working originals.

[MikeH]

AFter much cursing I got my shroud, flaps + thermostat rod routed and working without binding up. Sheesh what a pain.