'67 project

[bren]

Turns out I had a 6V transaxle and a 6V starter in the car. '67 is the first year of 12V so this was the wrong stuff. It can work with the right flywheel which was on the motor. That 6V starter would not have lasted long though.
Greg had a '67 transaxle core so he is going to get that one repaired for me and take mine in as a core. I got a proper flywheel from George. Hopefully this flywheel will seal up better and not allow the oil to leak. Fortunately the clutch and pressure plate on the car is the right size for the new flywheel. So, now all I need to find is a 12V starter.

[Ruffuss]

Bren, I have a starter you can have just come get it. It of course is from a type 181 self supporting no need for a bushing 12 volt (same starter used on an auto stick). But I used a 6 volt starter (they crank over fast) on many 12 volt cars with no ill effects you just can't crank on them long at any one time. Never burnt one up in fact still use a 6 volt starter on my buggy. Later Kenn

[bren]

Kenn:
Thanks, yes I will take you up on that offer. Want my 6v in exchange? It was working when the car was torn apart. I am mainly changing in hopes of stopping the oil leak.
-Bren

[bren]

Greg Hudson called. My transaxle is done! Going to get it after work. Can't beat that service!

[bren]

Transaxle is back on the chassis again. Greg did very nice work!
Tonight John stopped by to help me hang the motor on the transaxle. Showed me how to run the motor like it is on a test stand. Hope to do that tomorrow night. Hopefully I have the engine oil leak solved!

[bren]

It's alive! Fired up the engine. Starts incredibly easily and idles nice. What a relief!
Grease in the transaxle, drums bolted on, rims and tires installed. Ran the engine and the oil leak at the flywheel/rear main seal is gone. Now I just need to install the shocks, adjust the brakes, recheck fluid levels, attach the throttle cable, and the chassis is done. (although I am probably forgetting something....)

I lowered the rear one outer spline. Front is lowered with only the adjusters, no drop spindles yet. Right now as it sits the front is 1/2" higher than the rear. I stood on the front pans and the front dropped to around 1/4" lower than the rear. Hopefully when the car is back together the front is lower than or equal to the height of the rear. I am concerned that the rear might sit lower than the front. If it does I will be looking for drop spindles.

[wells]

Very cool! I am watching and learning. I guess you can teach and old dog!

[Chris]

Bren, I have CB Dropped spindles, I love em. I would recommend them. I think they cost about the same as any others.

Chris

[bren]

Chris: I have them on my beige car too. They definately make the car ride better. I will probably put them on this car eventually. Just trying to stop spending money on this car right now.
-Bren

[VDub63 ( Steven )]

Nice Bren, ;D looks good so far.

[jmallen05]

Looking good, can we get a side shot so we can get an idea of how low it will be. Once everything is buttoned up on the pan you should take it for a spin, that picture would make a great avatar.

jerry

[bren]

I hope to have the chassis done in the next couple days. I will roll it outside and take a side shot. I measured from the outer lip of the pan to the ground. As it sits now the rear is 9" and the front is 9.5". Hopefully when the body is on it will go down some more.

[bren]

Check out this site. users.eastlink.ca/~disorganism/63beetle.html
Interesting way to go about replacing what needs to be replaced on my car.
I like the idea of bolting all the parts onto the chassis first for test fitting.
I don't know about the 10 days but I like the approach.

[Southpaw]

Why does the ride change Bren , Is it the new pivot point arc .

[bren]

With just adjusters you loose tension on the leaf springs. You feel every tiny crack in the road. With drop spindles you can reset the adjusters back to stock locations. Lets the suspension work like stock but you still get the lowered stance. Makes a huge difference in the ride quality.