'67 project

[bren]

Also, the guy that did my beam did not recommend the special lowered ball joints. He felt the standard ones are much stronger. Eventually I will do the drop spindles.

[ghiastein]

I installed the lowered ball joints on my car but I did not notice much more travel. I really do not know much about the quality or strength of them but I do know that they had to be better than my original ones.

[jmallen05]

I've never heard of any strength issues, my drop spindles are forged so I would think they're as strong as originals. If you go too low you'll want them because with stock spindles and your beam cranked low your tires won't be in the middle of your fenders anymore, they'll be toward the front more. This happens because you trailing arms are at a more vertical angle, If you know what I mean, there definitely not a must they just give you more adjustment. Also Chirco had drop spindles on sale last week for $149 a set, thats pretty cheap not sure if there still on sale though.

jerry

[bren]

Last night I made some good progress on the beam. Tie rods in, shocks remounted, steering dampner, front brake lines, and the wheel bearings cleaned. Tonight hopefully the front end will be resting on it's rims and tires.
Also, got the fuel line reinstalled last Sunday. Put it back in the tunnel where it belongs. Was not super easy to do but not impossible either.
Photos of the beam so far:

[jmallen05]

That looks good, it looks like it went alot easier with the body off.
Are the adjusters clocked at 90 degrees? I think mine are, and it didn't go low enough with out drop spindles. Yours don't look like they are it looks like they are less, so it will let you go pretty low without spindles. Also did you use radiused ball joints? I need new ball joints desperately and wanted to get the radiused type.

jerry

[bren]

I don't know what radiused ball joints are. All I know is I have new TRW ball joints according to the seller.

Assembly did not go too bad. Body off is definately the way to go. Makes the whole project much easier. Now I wish I would have done that on my beige car. Live and learn!

Tonight I got the front all done. The long tie rod end just barely clears the tunnel now. Once the body is back on I am sure it will be fine.

Honestly, I am not so sure the car is going to be as low as I had hoped. I think the adjusters are not in the ideal location. Only time will tell. I don't plan to try to move them though. If it is not low enough I will just have to get the drop spindles.

Here are some photos:







No photos but I did get the brake line installed and the pedal cluster. Next it is painting of the front suspension then onto lowering the rear and painting the rear.

[jmallen05]

Radiused ball joints are for lowered cars, they won't bind at extreme angles. I don't have them on mine but when I replace them I will.

jerry

[wells]

Bren: I'm nerw into this game, and I've really enjoyed reading your posts on the blue 67. I have a white 71 (originally orange) that I'm am going to start next week. I know I need to start with the interior, but then I am not sure where to direct my wrenches. Is there a good restoration manual? I hope to do as good a job as you are doing on my daily driver.
Wells

[bren]

Wells:
Thanks for the compliments. I have enjoyed posting the details of my project.
As far as where to start.... I guess it depends on what your overall goals are. I do know that I would not hesitate to pull the body. When I did my beige car I did not pull the body. I was too intimidated at the time. Now I see how much easier it makes the whole project.
I am not aware of a good single restoration manual. I used multiple resources, books, magazines, bug me videos, and the internet. This forum is a good resource as is www.thesamba.com
Post up your project. Show us some photos and let us know what you want to accomplish. I am sure you will get some good advice here.
-Bren

[jmallen05]

Bren, in your opinion is the best manual to get? I haven't bought one yet, and am in need of one, just curious to what you think the best option is.


jerry

[Dustin]

Jerry as far as manuals go I always keep the Bently official service manual for all the cars I have. Also Haynes manuals can be good when you don't have those special VW tools.

[bren]

I have John Muir's How to keep your volkswagen alive, a manual of step by step procedures for the compleat idiot. It is a classic. Some say it is dated but I still like it. Fun to read believe it or not.
I also have Jim Tyler's VW Beetle, restoration, preparation and maintenance. Published in Great Britian. It is more about restoration of a very rusty beetle. Actually, Wells, you might like this one.
The one I make a point of carrying in my car is the Bently Manual. It is titled "Volkswagen Official Service Manual" It is very thorough and has good detailed photos and line drawings.
Index is a little weak. A long time ago I found someone had created a better index for the 1970-1979 book online. Not sure where, probably on the Samba. I never found that index for the earlier book.
These books/manuals can be costly new. I bought them used. Sometimes you can find them at shows. I bought mine off http://www.half.com; ebay is another great source.

[bren]

Drained the transaxle fluid tonight.... Some little teeth looking pieces of metal came out with the cup of fluid that was in there.

This could be bad!

[Dustin]

Oh man that sucks, I guess we should have drove the car around a little to see how good the trans was. On a good note if the trans is bad Patrick has some for sale.

[bren]

John is on his way over to help me pull the transaxle. Going to take it to Greg Hudson for repair. He says he repairs not rebuilds. I know it will be right when he is done. Easier now with the body off but still not what I wanted to be doing. I was so close to done with the chassis.



At least now I can zero rust paint the spots I missed....