Project 68

[dubfreak1]

Worked on more weight reduction today. Some may think I went too far:



The other thing I did was to work on making Michigan a manufacturing hub like in its best days. I have noticed a lot of products are similar to things that used to be made here, but are now made in China. Using the same manufacturing techniques as the Communists use, we might become a meca for the manufacture of VW mid mounts like this:



The first step in the process was to buy a midmount from "OldSpeed" on TheSamba. It is well made, fits good, and was a good value at $20 shipped.

Step two was to trace the shape on to a piece of scrap steel (steal OldSpeed's design). 3/16 material was used instead of the 1/4 inch of the original (make it cheaper, not better)

Step three was to skip the plating like used on the original (again, make it cheaper, not better)

I figure on selling these for $18.95 and charge $15 for shipping once we get into production.

The only thing left to do to set up production would be to get the government to finance the business, find a way to make these with more disregard for pollution and then hire a bunch of 8year old kids to work 16hrs a day in a poor environment.

I think there is a lot of potential here

[bren]

Very nice.
Are you going to develop a non-weld in version?

Good luck on the new business venture!

[dubfreak1]

Develop?


You got one we can copy? ;D

[bren]

Hopefully I will have on tomorrow!

[tarrich]

What about standing it vertically and welding a flat plate to the bottom making a large t-joint with the ends curled. That way it could lighter gauge. Of course chamfering the holes and edge rounded. It could even be hollowed out a bit like a torsion arm A top plate with a slit or notch for it to go around the mid mount. Bolt the sandwiched plates together and go. I think that would stiffen the horns up a bit.

[dubfreak1]

I'm only kidding tarrich. It was way more work making it than just buying one for $20. But once it was started...........

Anyway, last year at Lansing I couldn't find a rear solid mount, this year I think there were 512 of them. Got one for $5 and cleaned it up today and got it painted. Also welded in the solid mid mount. What a pain in the extreme lower back. Glad the welds will be primarily in compression as it is really just a bunch of tacks. The jack receivers also fell off the car today (saved 14 ounces) ;D

Heres a pic of the mid mount installed:

[dubfreak1]

The 68 is getting a 66 short axle trans with a 4.37 ring & pinion to replace its long axle 4.12 ring & pinion stock trans. I was crossing the line at 3200 rpm, so it needs more gear and the short axles should be a little lighter.

Well this is going really great!

I looked at the mass and configuration of the frame horns and decided that I didn't need to worry about draw from weld too much. WRONG! The frame horns are now about 1/8 inch closer together than they used to be. Next time, I'll spread the horns the 1/8 prior to welding in the mid-mount. For now I have a special tool fondly refered to as a horn spreader for rear mount installation:



The spreader worked well and I got the trans installed in he car. I then ground out its "6 voltedness" to simulate what I saw on the '68 trans that was removed. I used a dummy block with just a crank and flywheel and held it up to the trans to check the clearance. It took several tries, but finally took shape. Most of the grinding was around the 4 mounting bosses and the starter bushing area. I also relieved it on the bottom, and then the sides an top like the 68 trans. After 40yrs of playing with these cars, this was my first 12V motor mated to a 6V trans. Here's a couple of pics:





After cleaning up a bunch of brake stuff and starting to install the brakes, one of the drums had about 3/8 to 1/2 inch run-out at the mounting surface. I feared a bent axle, but it tuned out that the problem was in the drum itself. Next was a wheel cyl with bad threads. Got the engine finally installed and was putting on the exhaust when the thought occurred to make sure it turned over OK. Guess what. Holding a case with flyweel and crank up to the trans is different than bolting in the engine Finally got everything resolved and had Beth help me bleed the brakes last night. After doing that it was time to tighten the axle nuts, so I asked her to hold the brake while I tightened. Got one side done A-OK. next side needed just a little more to get the cotter hole lined up. I told her to really stand on the pedal and torqued the nut. Beth says "now the pedal goes all the way to the floor." Brake fluid is leaking from a front caliper.

I can't find any matches, so the car is safe for now..............

[dubfreak1]

Finally got the 68 in drivable condition again. The spring plate bushings are energy suspension urethane and the torsion bars were adjusted 1 outer spline on the driver's side and one inner spline on the passenger side. This took care of the lean the car had in the rear and it now sits level. Thanks Steve for the advice to not go 2 splines! Can't wait to see how this all works on the track. Here's a couple of pics:

[bren]

Nice stance Rudy. Looking forward to seeing it on the track!

[Dustin]

Looking good Rudy

[dubfreak1]

Well the 68 finally hit the track today. Or should I say the course as it was at an autox, not the dragstrip. The event chairman said at the wrap up that "if you got into the 40's today you were doing pretty well." The 68 ran a 49.8 and won the vintage class.

The suspension mods worked out very well. The car now has very good balance and much improved turn-in. The lowering allows putting power (power ) down much better than before. Fortunately today's event was quite twisty and wet which allowed me to stay in 2nd gear, but the gearing is going to be too low for 2nd at most autox events and not low enough to stay in 3rd. At the end of the slalom today the tach was reading 5000rpm. The gearing changes are for improved dragstrip performance. Seat of the pants, it seems to make a big difference. Can't wait to get to the strip and see if that 17.99 sec run is in the cards.

[dansam]

Sounds like you had fun. I love Autox. A bug may not be the fastest way around the track but it may be the most fun.

[MadMike]

Hey Rudy,Now to keep guys guess'n Mount some 66-67 front drums and Ercos/5 lug offset Center$$$lines ;D and get the frontend in Da'Weeds Do You have a Stinger? should drop a cpl 10ths with one, I have one you can try,Madmike

[dubfreak1]

I do have a stinger for the drag racing, but autox requires a muffler. The suspension works pretty good as it is and as long as this is a dual purpose racer, it needs to be set for handling. I may still go with KYB's in the rear and some type of camber limiter. Didn't have any problems with it wanting to lift and tuck yesterday. The amount of loose gravel and water may have kept the traction low enough. I prefer to think it was the application of right foot! They don't lift when you're on the gas ;D ;D ;D

[dubfreak1]

Got a chance to use the stinger last night and it was worth the .2 sec that Mike predicted. It was great to get back to the dragstrip and get some hard numbers on performance.

The 68 was not as pleasing here as it was at the autox. The solid mounts allowed for leaving the line hard, but it didn't make a lot of difference in the 60ft times. The gearing change and shorter tires made the car feel stronger in 1st and 2nd gears, but it didn't seem to do much in 3rd and 4th. In fact it felt weaker. Steve said that this was how it looked to him when we ran together. Best time with the muffler was 18.9 and the best time with the stinger was 18.7. The cars previous best was an 18.5 so there is something wrong somewhere. It previously crossed the line at about 3200rpm and now is at 3800rpm, so that should be closer to the engine power peak. I realized on the way home that I had never checked that the throttle is getting open 100%, but that is the only thing I can think of that might explain the slower time.