1978 FI Bug Vert

[dubfreak1]

Gotta say I admire your dedication to doing it right. Most would not try this hard to keep it original.

[Southpaw]

I past the request on to one of the Good old Boys yesterday . Also that Green Super Sun Roof has an AFM but I don't know the year if that makes a big difference .

[MikeH]

George had a box full of FI parts he was going to sell me for $75 but it was missing the AFM. So I passed.

I ordered a new/remanufactured one from FIC for $100. This way I have at least an implied warranty. Should be here today so hopefully will be running good this weekend if I don't find any surprises.

Can't decide if I'm going to keep or sell the bug once its running good. We'll see. The top is in good condition which is the really big ticket item if it had to be restored.

It has a lot of potential and I got it for a steal. But restorations take money and if I'm going to spend that kind of cash I would prefer something older and not a convertible.

Plus I need a new computer... but I can't drive a computer.

Bah, can't decide. Don't be surprised though if you see it in Craigslist next week.

[MikeH]

Well after a year of this thing sitting I"m back at it. My central problem has been the engine/exhaust overheating to dangerous levels in a very short period of time.

General consensus has been that my air cooling was blocked since I exhausted most of the other obvious things. So I decided to man-up finally and this weekend the engine came out. What a freakin pain in the ass. Fuel Injections got so much crap bolted on. Took me about 4 hours of screwing around before I finally got the thing dropped. Very tight fit and didn't come out easy. Bent a few parts.

Good news is it's out. Bad news is no blockage on the cooling, so thats not my problem. Sure was hoping to find a rats nest.

[MikeH]

[MikeH]

[MikeH]

(Notice the oil baffle was installed incorrectly, louvres opening should be on the right) Isn't there also supposed to be a paper gasket under the oil baffle? Ah, found the answer on airheads website.

Oil Deflector, Alt/Gen Tower Base

Part #: 113-101-221 B
Fits 1500/1600 Engine Cases. This is a Metal CRUSH gasket - no other gaskets are needed or required. Because it is a CRUSH gasket, you can only use once then throw it away and replace.

[MikeH]

As typical, I spend more time working on some other problem unrelated to the main one. I've spent 2 days trying to get a darn tin screw out. No amount of rust buster and hammering will get it loose.

I don't own a torch. Hopefully a buddy has one because it's not budging without heat.

It's also pretty clear I"m going to have problems with the J-pipe and exhaust/heat exchanger bolts. They look real rusted. Can't pull the heads till those come off.

[MikeH]

Dropped the engine off at a local body shop to remove the jpipes and heater channels. Bolts are too rusted for me to get off.

[81pumagtc]

Mike:

The oil deflector crush gasket is terrible. Yes, they work once, and yes, they are supposed to not seep or weep, but they do. I found that after a year or so, the heat cycles would allow it to seep a little bit on the Pig of Plastic.

Cue joyful music, there is a solution.

Hylomar.

It is an aerospace gasket sealant (developed by Rolls Royce for jet engines) that never hardens. It's a little expensive at about $10 a tube, but it's worth it. It just works. Just make certain that you follow the directions, especially regarding set times, because the solvent has to migrate out for it to work. Also, don't use too much of it. Mine has not weeped since.

It's now known as Hylomar-Universal Blue Racing Formula.

I have used it for years and years, even when it was $50 a tube, and even at $50 a tube, it was worth it.

Some guys like things like Yamabond, but this stuff is much more forgiving, and cleans perfectly using Acetone.

Dave Riedle

[MikeH]

Good tip thanks.

[MikeH]

VWfanatics's dad was kind enough to use his car hauler to get the bug to the machine shop. Getting some minor metal work done to fill the holes in the fender walls where A/C hoses were routed and to patch some rust.

Should have got a picture of that.

[67type1]

Mike, looks real good, I love the photos!

I agree with Dave, Hylomar is great stuff. Its a bit pricey, but well worth it.

[MikeH]

Made the decision to drop the heater channels and stock j-pipe configuration. Gonna look for something non stock for $200 or less for exhaust.

Am told once I drop the heaters I can use pretty much anything. Will need to eliminate the EGR also.

[MikeH]

#1/2 head and cylinder shot

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cross hatching was still visible in cylinder walls. lots of soot in head but this was likely from the terrible rich condition of the combustion prior to my fixing the air flow meter. Least thats what I'm hoping.