Pig of Plastic front spindles
Jun 24, 2014 14:27:14 GMT -5
Post by 81pumagtc on Jun 24, 2014 14:27:14 GMT -5
When we last saw the Pig of Plastic, there were problems with the new CB Performance drop spindles.
Basiclly, the wheels no longer fit without coming in contact with the new front spindles. The new, CB front spindles are only offset .250", and with wide 14" wheels and tires, this is just not enough.
The solution is either to get 15" wheels and tires, or add a spacer to move the tires out a bit. Since the wheels are unique to this model, changing the wheels are not an option. It turns out that there are a lot of options for spacers. I chose the CB Performance spacers because they are inexpensive, but any kind of spacer EMPI, etc. will work.To have about .125" clearance between the bottom ball joint and the wheel means your spacers should be about .306". The CB spacers are about $20 each, and are .375" thick.
.375" aluminum spacer from CB Performance
That takes care of the spacer, but now I had to increase the length of the lug bolts. I called T3 Telchniques, and ordered more of the 14mm large ball socket nuts. These are a Porsche style part, and complete lug-bolts parts are generally too long. To solve this, I purchased the longer 14mm wheel studs in a black-oxide finish, and the threads are rolled, rather than cut with a tap, which is better.
14mm wheel nuts and 14mm EMPI wheel studs
Raw threads
The idea is to take a structural adhesive, and use it to bond the stud to the lug nut when it is screwed into place. I used Araldite, which is a bit more expensive, but I had it. (Araldite is used to attach turbine blades to the center shaft on jet engines, so using it to attach a screwed in lug bolt to a stud is probably fine. I created a fixture to try and break earlier version, but the fixture broke at 400ft/lbs, so they are quite strong.)
In reality, JB Weld (not JB Kwick) is probably more than enough to do this, but I still have some Araldite.
Wheel lug with Araldite spread on threads
I mixed up a batch, and spread it completely around the threads on the inside of the lug bolts. I then screwed in the studs, backing them out a turn or two every three turns, until you can feel no "Steel on Steel" any longer, to insure the adhesive is everywhere. When finished, I put the lug bolts facing up. This structural adhesive takes 24 hours to harden, so it will flow for several hours anywhere that is no adhesive.
Wheel bolt set on end
The new lug bolts are longer, and will thread completely through and past the holes.
We'll know if all of this has been worth it when the car comes back later this week!
Dave Riedle
Basiclly, the wheels no longer fit without coming in contact with the new front spindles. The new, CB front spindles are only offset .250", and with wide 14" wheels and tires, this is just not enough.
The solution is either to get 15" wheels and tires, or add a spacer to move the tires out a bit. Since the wheels are unique to this model, changing the wheels are not an option. It turns out that there are a lot of options for spacers. I chose the CB Performance spacers because they are inexpensive, but any kind of spacer EMPI, etc. will work.To have about .125" clearance between the bottom ball joint and the wheel means your spacers should be about .306". The CB spacers are about $20 each, and are .375" thick.
.375" aluminum spacer from CB Performance
That takes care of the spacer, but now I had to increase the length of the lug bolts. I called T3 Telchniques, and ordered more of the 14mm large ball socket nuts. These are a Porsche style part, and complete lug-bolts parts are generally too long. To solve this, I purchased the longer 14mm wheel studs in a black-oxide finish, and the threads are rolled, rather than cut with a tap, which is better.
14mm wheel nuts and 14mm EMPI wheel studs
Raw threads
The idea is to take a structural adhesive, and use it to bond the stud to the lug nut when it is screwed into place. I used Araldite, which is a bit more expensive, but I had it. (Araldite is used to attach turbine blades to the center shaft on jet engines, so using it to attach a screwed in lug bolt to a stud is probably fine. I created a fixture to try and break earlier version, but the fixture broke at 400ft/lbs, so they are quite strong.)
In reality, JB Weld (not JB Kwick) is probably more than enough to do this, but I still have some Araldite.
Wheel lug with Araldite spread on threads
I mixed up a batch, and spread it completely around the threads on the inside of the lug bolts. I then screwed in the studs, backing them out a turn or two every three turns, until you can feel no "Steel on Steel" any longer, to insure the adhesive is everywhere. When finished, I put the lug bolts facing up. This structural adhesive takes 24 hours to harden, so it will flow for several hours anywhere that is no adhesive.
Wheel bolt set on end
The new lug bolts are longer, and will thread completely through and past the holes.
We'll know if all of this has been worth it when the car comes back later this week!
Dave Riedle
