tubbugs
25hp
Posts: 15 
Joined: Sept 25, 2013 6:50:19 GMT -5
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Post by tubbugs on Jan 19, 2014 15:58:43 GMT -5
Working on an old 1200. Didn't plan on tearing it apart when I got it as it is so dry, except for the main seal, and runs so well. I cleaned and put lipstick (chrome) all over it and upon restart with an oil pressure gauge I get ZERO oil pressure! I even pulled the fitting out of where the pressure switch would be and NO oil came out when I cranked it. Also, had the flywheel resurfaced for new clutch assembly and had the bearing surface polished. New main seal and proper shims etc. but still leaking there too. One of you engine experts must be able to tell me what is wrong. I could on a Briggs and Stratton and think of this as one but 4 cylinders.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions. |
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Post by bren on Jan 19, 2014 18:56:15 GMT -5
How long did you crank it? Was the oil cold? If the engine was dry it can take a while to prime the oil to get it to come out that port.
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clintonddk
1600dp
Posts: 755
Joined: Oct 7, 2008 18:16:45 GMT -5
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Post by clintonddk on Jan 19, 2014 20:16:45 GMT -5
If the engine sat for a long period of time the oil pump may need to be primed.
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tubbugs
25hp
Posts: 15
Joined: Sept 25, 2013 6:50:19 GMT -5
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Post by tubbugs on Jan 20, 2014 4:15:00 GMT -5
Engine and oil were warm but searches of the subject lead to priming the pump. I did have the cover off and it's well in spec. so that's next. Then re-visit the main seal and see where it is leaking. I doubt the seal itself but have learned there are a lot of cheap seals that just won't do the job. I've got a couple others and will compare and re-do the whole process.
Thanks for the replies!
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Post by bren on Jan 20, 2014 6:00:42 GMT -5
If the engine sat for a long period of time the oil pump may need to be primed. Clinton, how do you do this? |
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MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by MadMike on Jan 20, 2014 9:58:22 GMT -5
You can remove the sender and squirt oil in the hole,then crank it over ASAP holding a finger over the hole,soon u should get pressure
I'd remove the spark plug so it turns faster too,Madmike
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clintonddk
1600dp
Posts: 755
Joined: Oct 7, 2008 18:16:45 GMT -5
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Post by clintonddk on Jan 20, 2014 10:27:59 GMT -5
TYou could do like mike said or remove the pump cover and insert some grease then reinstall pump cover.
I have herd of builders using two thin main seals instead of the stock seal. I had issues with trying to get one of my engines to seal at the flywheel. I never did get it to seal. There is also a main seal out there that has a double seal on it. It looks like the standard seal.
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tubbugs
25hp
Posts: 15
Joined: Sept 25, 2013 6:50:19 GMT -5
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Post by tubbugs on Jan 20, 2014 18:51:06 GMT -5
All great advise. My 1914 sits for weeks/months/all winter and always has ample pressure before firing so I never thought of priming. Had a type 4 a couple years ago that was a project for a friend and couldn't get the main seal in it to dry up. The manual I have says that this vintage does not have an O ring as it has the metal gasket. I'm running it on a test stand now, made out of an old transaxle, so I should be able to pull the pressure plate and see where it's leaking. I'll prime the pump then too. Momma wants this buggy running in the spring!
Again, thanks!
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tubbugs
25hp
Posts: 15
Joined: Sept 25, 2013 6:50:19 GMT -5
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Post by tubbugs on Mar 13, 2014 19:00:30 GMT -5
Finally got off my duff and worked on the motor. Pulled it off the hot stand and pulled the flywheel. Main seal dry, cam plug leaking. Ordered one of the rubber press in ones on line and, of course, being a 1200 it didn't fit. Got a freeze/block plug that was very close and machined it to just press fit. Installed with Permatex grey. Primed the pump and re-fired it. She-no-leaky and 40 psi warmed up with about 15 at idle on the gage. Keeps the light off! I appreciate all the info here. Now on to master cylinder and brake lines! Momma wants to go come warm weather!
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