rubyjeweltsa
25hp
Posts: 8
Joined: Aug 18, 2013 20:52:53 GMT -5
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Post by rubyjeweltsa on Aug 18, 2013 20:54:39 GMT -5
Hi. I am new to this forum and new to the car restoration world!!
I have a 75 VW super beetle convertible and I would like to get it back up and running and then hopefully take it through a restoration.
2-3 years ago, it drove and ran great. Needed new tires and brakes, but still started right up and ran great. Well, it has been stored in my dads barn for 2-3 years and my husband and I decided to get it out and see if we could get her going. I replaced the battery and the ground cable (as it was bad and caused the battery to not hold a charge). Would not even turn over the started. So I did some research and found that the battery did not have enough charge to turn the starter over. We went back out today and jumped it. It turns over and starts, but will not stay running or idle. We tried starter fluid and carb cleaner down the carburetor and still not success. My dad says it is the carburetor probably all gummed up.
So I was going to try and pull the carburetor off and rebuild it myself (I am a nurse, not a mechanic!!). How hard is this to do? I found the kit in the JC Whitney catalog and a video on You Tube. It does not look impossible, but I am just hoping I can get all the pieces back after I soak it.
Is it better to rebuild it or to buy a rebuilt or new one? I have faith that I can rebuild it myself, but my husband thinks I am crazy.
Next question is, how do I tell if I have a 1.5L or 1.6? I can not find anything on the car, motor, etc that tells me this unless I am not looking in the right place.
Thank you for your help in advance!!
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Ruffuss
1600dp
Posts: 2,795
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 19:13:16 GMT -5
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Post by Ruffuss on Aug 19, 2013 3:25:03 GMT -5
Carb or FI (fuel injection)? It should be a 1600cc unless it was changed(swapped out)? #'s below the generator/alternator stand will tell the engine code. Also it should be a dual port? not a single port again depending on if it is stock or replaced. IMHO I would stay clear of JC Whitney. Try BL, Empi, West Coast Metric, etc. Where you from? Maybe best to have someone who knows what they're doing take a look see. May save you money in the long run? We have many good carb/FI guys here abouts(I'm not one LOL!)
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Ruffuss
1600dp
Posts: 2,795
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 19:13:16 GMT -5
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Post by Ruffuss on Aug 19, 2013 3:29:56 GMT -5
And by the way..... Welcome! to the Forum. Go to the Introduction page and tell us about yourself, your car, where's home etc etc etc.
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rubyjeweltsa
25hp
Posts: 8
Joined: Aug 18, 2013 20:52:53 GMT -5
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Post by rubyjeweltsa on Aug 20, 2013 20:54:37 GMT -5
Hi Ruffuss, I am from Flint, MI. My husband said the same thing you said. He has no faith in me to tear it down, so we found someone here in Flint, MI that was recommended by two different carburetor guys (They don't do foreign) that my dad uses for his old cars. They charge $85.00 to look at it and help diagnose the problem. Then of course more for what ever needs to get her running again!! We may tow it over on Thursday. I am pretty sure that it is not FI!! I am not sure what a single or dual port is, so I can't say. I will post some pictures.
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blue71
1500sp
Posts: 439
Joined: Sept 1, 2009 15:56:12 GMT -5
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Post by blue71 on Aug 20, 2013 21:31:00 GMT -5
Yep you're sporting the original 1975-79 FI system. Check all the wire connections to make sure they aren't loose/gnawed on by a mouse. There are different FI system electrical components scattered about the car that could have loose connections. Fuel pump could be bad/loose wire, double relay could be bad. From what I've heard the ECUs don't really die often, mainly the decel, cold start and other related valves for the FI system and relays can go bad. FI troubleshooting book link: www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_fi_11_1974.php
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rubyjeweltsa
25hp
Posts: 8
Joined: Aug 18, 2013 20:52:53 GMT -5
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Post by rubyjeweltsa on Aug 21, 2013 21:14:56 GMT -5
Ok... Got out of work early today and got my husband to go out to my mom and dads to put the black boot back on (was told she would not start without it on) and try and start her again!! Well, turned over 4-5 times started and stalled... Couple times started with one turn of the key!! Now battery dead... My husband looked at the boot and said he didn't think the back was on... took it off and put it back on... Put on charger and gave it a boost and she STARTED and IDLED!!!
So we let her run for about 30 minutes or more and took her for a drive!!! Took off and almost ran into the trees!! Finally got her going straight and off we went!! My husband drove it and took her into fourth gear with no problem!! I only took her to 3rd!!
I am so happy right now!!
I have a couple more questions... Also, I read in my other book this warning: "DO NOT USE JUMPER CABLES TO START YOUR FUEL INJECTED ENGINE! DO NOT QUICK (OR SLOW) CHARGE YOUR BATTERY WITHOUT DISCONNECTING THE GROUND STRAP AND THE BATTERY POSITIVE CLAMP! In other words, take the battery out of the car for charging. (Sorry about the caps, but the warning was written just like this!)
I guess I have broken this rule already several times. I have a brand new battery (that did not have enough charge to turn the starter over when we first put it in), but it does not seem to be holding a charge. We replaced the ground wire and bolt when we put the battery in. My dad did say that he will help me see if there is another short some where that would be draining the battery. Would anyone have any ideas on this?
I have some more crazy questions such as can I go to any tire place and get my new tires? I went to one and their computers didn't go back that far, so he thought I was nuts!! Also how about an oil change? Can I take it to a dealership and have the oil changed, or do I need a VW mechanic for this also? I would like to get the oil changed, a tune up, and possibly brakes and tires before winter.
Maybe I am getting ahead of myself!! (
Anyway, she is running and starts with first turn of the key!!
Thanks again!!
Taleesa
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Ruffuss
1600dp
Posts: 2,795
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 19:13:16 GMT -5
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Post by Ruffuss on Aug 22, 2013 4:14:22 GMT -5
Discount tire, or any another chain type tire dealer should be able to match them up (165 R 75 15 would be stock, I think)? As far as oil change goes it's best to change/replace the screen and gasket as well as the oil(gets all the crud out). Again any chain type oil change place will be able to change the oil, it's the screen/gasket that may be the problem(if you have or can get an oil change kit) do it yourself. Look for a Dunebuggy Shop/parts house in your area they would have the kit and maybe could change the oil and tune it up also.
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blue71
1500sp
Posts: 439
Joined: Sept 1, 2009 15:56:12 GMT -5
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Post by blue71 on Aug 22, 2013 10:49:43 GMT -5
The modern equivalent for stock 165R15 beetle tire size is 165/80/R15
Kuhmo, Nexen, Yokohoma, Arizonian Metric made them last I checked. Though I think the Nexen ones are NLA.
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gokart
1600dp
'67 Beetle - Ruby
Posts: 858
Joined: Sept 28, 2008 20:39:39 GMT -5
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Post by gokart on Aug 22, 2013 14:22:53 GMT -5
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rubyjeweltsa
25hp
Posts: 8
Joined: Aug 18, 2013 20:52:53 GMT -5
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Post by rubyjeweltsa on Aug 22, 2013 18:40:41 GMT -5
Thanks everyone!! I am looking into this. Thanks for all the help!!
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