vanapplebomb
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 19, 2013 18:20:52 GMT -5
Below is a picture of my steering box cover. It appears that the pitting is the combined result of heavy corrosion and perhaps a casting flaw? What do you guys make of it?   |
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 19, 2013 20:34:11 GMT -5
I guess my biggest concern was the structural integrity of the cover. Certainly isn't much metal right there.
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 21, 2013 21:23:22 GMT -5
Also, the rubber gasket seems alright for being 53 years old. Do you think I can reuse it, or should I find some rubber gasket material, trace out the old one, and cut a new one?
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vw1s
1600dp
I am Jack's Medulla Oblongata...
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Post by vw1s on Mar 22, 2013 5:20:41 GMT -5
The cover doesn't do much, other than keep the oil in. I very seldom recommend using it, but, JB weld can work wonders filling in pits in AL. I'd make a new gasket, you've done all the other work, why risk it?
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 22, 2013 6:23:53 GMT -5
The cover doesn't do much, other than keep the oil in. ...and take the vertical thrust from the pit arm shaft. One of my buddies busted the cover on his box. I don't think he used any washers/spacers between the box and pit arm to keep the shaft from pounding into the top, so that's probably why the cover got blown off while blasting around the trails...crazy guy. I very seldom recommend using it, but, JB weld can work wonders filling in pits in AL. I'd make a new gasket, you've done all the other work, why risk it? I agree, I never liked the JB patch job much either. I guess in this case filling the pitting on the inside would help make sure the thing seals well. I will look into finding some gasket stuff. If I can't turn anything up I might just have to reuse the old one  Thanks for the suggestion Patrick! |
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Post by bren on Mar 23, 2013 0:21:39 GMT -5
Ray showed us a trick for softening old rubber pieces. Involved soaking in peppermint oil I believe.
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 23, 2013 16:52:56 GMT -5
Hu, thats a new one to me. I might have to play around with that.
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67type1
1600dp
Remembering the past.... liv'n the Dream
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Post by 67type1 on Mar 26, 2013 4:31:03 GMT -5
I've used Wintergreen (90%) mixed with Acetone(10%). The acetone opens up the rubber & the wintergreen oil softens it. Many have used this process with great success. I wrap the part (rubber stops, gaskets, electrical harness casings, etc...) in a soaked rag, then rap that in a plastic grocery bag. The trick is to monitor the process. I'd check it after about 6 hours, most parts take 24-48hrs. If you leave in too long; it'll expand and soft too much. Make sure the gasket is clean & you like the smell of wintergreen   Wintergreen oil can be purchased on Ebay or other places. Acetone is a common hardware store item, Walmart & Meijer carry too. Good luck! |
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vanapplebomb
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Post by vanapplebomb on Mar 26, 2013 20:28:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the tech tip!
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Jun 3, 2013 17:20:19 GMT -5
I tried the old JB trick. I filled in the rotted out edge of the cover with JB Kwik Weld and filed it flush with the rest of the cover. It worked great!
I just ordered new input and output shaft seals from a local industrial supply shop in town, got a new freeze plug, and cleaned up the bearings. A little paint and gear oil and she will be good to go!
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Post by 81pumagtc on Jun 3, 2013 22:45:12 GMT -5
In the future, I would recommend that you use regular JB Weld. JB Quick is not nearly as strong, and does not stick like standard JB Weld. It's just flat out not-recomended for cast-iron.
I have used JB Quick to "tack" things together, but the majority of the work is done with standard JB Weld.
A general rule for using structural epoxy is that longer curing times result in much stronger bonds, especially if the substrate has a high-rate of expansion and contraction, or is not surgically clean.
Been there, done that, learned my lesson...
Dave
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vanapplebomb
1600dp
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Post by vanapplebomb on Jun 4, 2013 17:04:19 GMT -5
Yup, Kwik is about 2/3rds the tensile strength the normal stuff if I remember right, and I think the cap is Magnesium. On the plus side, at least I have a good sealing surface now. I will defiently keep what you said in mind about the stuff not sticking to cast-iron. I had no idea. Thanks for the tip Dave!! I learn something new all the time around these forums |
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Post by 81pumagtc on Jun 4, 2013 19:22:18 GMT -5
Dirk:
It's not the tensile strength you have to worry about.
It's the physical adhesion, and how clean the surface is, as well as the surface itself.
I won't bore you with the details on how I know this...but trust me, I NOW know!
Dave
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vanapplebomb
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Post by vanapplebomb on Jun 4, 2013 21:21:55 GMT -5
I wire brushed the surface to scuff it up, then cleaned the Magnesium up good with solvent. It is on there pretty good right now. I don't think I will be able to get it off, so for now it is on to stay.
Not many people that I know of weld magnesium. Would it have been worth it to have someone puddle weld that gap on the sealing surface of the cover?
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