Help!!!!

[73dubber]

I need some help guys. My bug is leaking oil like crazy and I'm not really sure what to do next. It's a 73 autostick but and I want to get her out on the road. I'm in the manistee area do anyone reading that could come take a look or knows people in my area that could help, please let me know! At this point I'm willin to pay for someone to do it or help me with it. Thanks guys.
-Nick

[tarrich]

Did you find the leak?

[73dubber]

Kind of... It was leaking really bad, so I took the engine out and replaced the rear main and cleaned the engine up pretty good. But now I think it's leaking from the push rod tubes... I was thinking about maybe putting in the spring loaded tubes. Does anyone have any experience with those? And would oil leaks from the push rod tubes cause sufficient compression loss?... It's odd because the engine actually runs pretty decent at low speeds and idles fine, but it jut leaks too much oil for me to take it anywhere... Thanks,
Nick

[vdubdriver]

Mar 17, 2012 22:55:03 GMT -5 73dubber said:

Kind of... It was leaking really bad, so I took the engine out and replaced the rear main and cleaned the engine up pretty good. But now I think it's leaking from the push rod tubes... I was thinking about maybe putting in the spring loaded tubes. Does anyone have any experience with those? And would oil leaks from the push rod tubes cause sufficient compression loss?... It's odd because the engine actually runs pretty decent at low speeds and idles fine, but it jut leaks too much oil for me to take it anywhere... Thanks,
Nick

I currently have one of the spring loaded pushrod tubes installed in my car. It works fine. Did you check the oil cooler seals when you removed the engine?

[73dubber]

Alright then thats probably what I'll use. And ironically that is probably the one spot I didn't change the seals... But the leak kind of does line up with that area. There's no way to change that without pullin the engine right? Thanks,
Nick

[dansam]

Ok, first of all in the future please put this kind of thread in the tech section. That being said, this is a pretty common issue. You need to take the heads off repair correctly (not a big deal) it can be done in the car but is a lot easier out of the car. Remember you can remove the head an reinstall with no parts necessary other than a torque wrench. You can replace the tube seals and reuse the tubes if they are ok. Or yea you could use the spring type (I never felt the need to). After you are done put the motor on a stand an run and look for any leaks (yes a pain but easier than doing this weekly) I learned all this from the last time I chased down a leak (took 3 months an the engine being reinstalled biweekly!!)

Good luck

Dan

[73dubber]

Sorry about putting it in the wrong location.. I'm kind of new to this. So you're saying that I need to take the heads off so that I can replace gaskets? Or just to replace the tube seals?..again, I'm a newbie to this so sorry if that's a stupid question. I'm 19 and trying to do engine repair out oft dads woodworking shop...haha..Thanks for takin the time to reply. I appreciate the input!
Nick

[dunedudex4]

Hey Nick, I think you are right about pulling the engine to change the oil cooler seals( full bodied car )? If ( someone jump in ) you can pull the valve covers off and remove the rockers won't the push rods slide out, with the engine still in the car.?? If they will slide out, slide them out and with pliers or tin snips cut the old tubes out, clean everything, install new seals and the spring loaded P.R. tubes. I have a tub buggy so the engine is easy to get to. Thanks Dave T

[67type1]

Hi Nick,

I'd pull the motor and replace every seal & gasket you can. The OEM style pushrod types (solid, non-spring type) do require removing the heads. If you can wait; get the gasket set from one the members or at the Buggy show or order em. If you can wait even longer and you can get it to the the next Tech Session (April 22nd), we can pull the engine and repair the leak(s). If we have time; we can inspect the valves and maybe even clean them up a bit.

Costs... $10-18 Gaskets Set w/silicone crank seal, $8-28 Muffler clamp set, $9-15 Oil, 3 quarts

Let us know if you have any questions.

Thanks,
Ray

[vdubdriver]

Mar 18, 2012 13:33:23 GMT -5 73dubber said:

Sorry about putting it in the wrong location.. I'm kind of new to this. So you're saying that I need to take the heads off so that I can replace gaskets? Or just to replace the tube seals?..again, I'm a newbie to this so sorry if that's a stupid question. I'm 19 and trying to do engine repair out oft dads woodworking shop...haha..Thanks for takin the time to reply. I appreciate the input!
Nick

You'll want to remove the engine to change the oil cooler seals; it's the easiest way. If you remove the engine, it would be best to replace all of the seals that you can. Dan is saying that you need to remove the heads to replace the pushrod tube seals. You can reuse the tubes if they are in good shape; you'll just have to stretch them before re-installing them. You'll need a torque wrench to tighten the head nuts to the correct torque.

If you were not going to replace the oil cooler seals , you could replace the pushrod tubes with the spring loaded type with the engine in the car. Like Dave mentioned, you'd remove the rocker arms, then remove push rods from the tubes. You would then remove any push rod tube by destroying it (cutting or pulling with a pliers). Finish by installing the spring loaded push rod tube, push rod, then rocker arm.

[67type1]

I have a full set of the Bug Me Videos. The engine removal/installation & overhaul (disassembly, inspection, reassembly) are currently loaned out, due to be returned by 3/26 . Let me know if you want to borrow any of them. Only stipulation is I'd like them back within 2 weeks.

Here's a link that describes the different videos.
www.vw-diy.com

Send me a PM if interested

[73dubber]

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate all the replies. I have the week off from l next week so I'm going to try and pull the engine again, replace seals, and replace the push rod tubes. I hope that does the trick. I'll let everyone know the outcome.

Ray, pm to be sent shortly. Thanks for the offer!
-Nick

[73dubber]

Okay guys, today I took the bug for a little drive just because I couldn't resist this nice weather.. It ran pretty good (keep in min this in minus new push rod tubes still). It still leaks a little but another thing that concerned me was that after a little while of running it started to smoke pretty bad from the tailpipe. It was white smoke and I thought that the smoke might be coming off o the new j tubes I put in the bug or the painted tins in there now.. But the white smoke was coming straight from the tailpipe and there was lots o it. It seemed to run fine though except for a couple backfires here and there... Any ideas why it would be smoking? Thanks,
Nick

[dansam]

Uh Oh..... Sounds like you are running lean. Check out timing, fuel ratio....

[73dubber]

I know how to check the timing and everything but how do you check fuel ratio? Is that when you adjust the screw on te side of the carb? Thanks,
Nick