1915 Engine Project

[67type1]

I found an engine last year at the local salvage yard. Pretty much everything was trashed except the case. I took it to Greg Hudson (Battle Creek) to have him look it over. The case was stamped "0.20", but in fact it was .040 on the mains (standard thrust). The good news is it didn't need to be align bored & the camshaft journals were standard and in good shape.

This will be a street engine, and a some what long-term project (no rush since the current 1600 is doing well).

94mm with a 69mm counter weighted crank seems to be the right combo for me. Probably will go with a W110 camshaft. Rocker arms are still to be determined (stock or ratio?). Full flow is a must. I also like the idea of a remote oil filter and maybe a 1 1/2qt sump.

I'd like to get any suggestions, comments and ideas. Specifically; carburetor preference (40 IDF's come to mind...), oil pump size, heads (thinking of 040, 40mm/35.5mm valves). I'm even thinking of 1 1/2" flange heater boxes to keep me warm

The case was super corroded, and I blasted it to get it clean. Greg did the boring, decking & full flow machining. I would recommend him if you need any machine work. Great guy & super service.

[Pikeman]

I would use a cam designed for 1.4 ratio rockers to help decrease lifter bore wear. 40IDF's is the only carb choice.

[MadMike]

Hey Ray, I would step up the cam to a W120,good to 6k 8-)the w110 is done @ 5500rpm u may as well leave in the stock cam ;D,you can use 1:25's or stock rockers, without lifter bore issues(I use stock on my 2332 even with double springs )You can use 44Idf's but use the 32vents,MadMike

[dubfreak1]

Feb 22, 2012 7:31:46 GMT -5 67type1 said:

94mm with a 69mm counter weighted crank seems to be the right combo for me.

I have a similar long term street engine project. George got a CB 76mm crank and forged flywheel for me at a really good deal. This makes 2109cc and wouldn't cost much more than the 69mm counterweighted crank. I'll be using a W120 cam and 44IDF's. This engine was a 2054 (74mm crank) and was originally built years ago and has performed well. I got it from a friend and it is just time to freshen it up.

[67type1]

with a 76mm crank; how much clearancing needs to be done? What type of rods are you going to use? Thanks

[81pumagtc]

Ray:

How did you blast the case? Media?

When I did the Ducati and Guzzi race engines I glass beaded the outsides with every hole taped off.

I did the same thing for the heads, but did do the combustion chamber. Two Ducati gurus told me to wash everything with soapy water and a mild Scotchbrite pad with lots of Dawn directly applied to the pad and scrub well. Rinse everything really well, and then place the heads in a 250 degree oven for a couple of hours, and then place them over a piece of black cardboard. Rap them pretty well while hot, and see if anything comes out.

I was surprised. Several little pieces did. I did the scrub, heat rap things two more times before nothing else came out. It turns out that sometimes glass beads break and imbed small pieces in the alloy. Heating apparently expands these holes that are embedded in the alloy, and they can come free then.

Now I just use walnut shells, or soda, and scrub real well. I'm not a fan of doing cases this way any longer because they are so difficult to keep clean on a Duck or a Guzzi, and oil is just a way of life. I would always paint the cases if possible. Easier to keep clean.

Dave Riedle

[67type1]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tips.

I did bead blast the case. I've done this in the past with no problems. The case has been cleaned in the solvent tank, next it will be blown out, then rifle brushes through every possible hole/journal, then its a trip to my friends ultra sonic cleaner (you can fit two V8 blocks in this thing, and will heat the cleaning agent up to 300degF). Next I will power wash it, take it through the solvent tank, then spray Brake Kleen and then blow it out again.

The case will be painted. I'll spray a degreaser that has a mild acid to etch the aluminum. Rinse well and follow up with paint prep. Thinking of Honda Outboard Marine paint, its a silver/gray with a little metallic in it.

No action on this for a while... having too much fun with the new acquisition; a vintage Sioux valve grinder set. I've wanted one for years, and after using Paul's; I knew I had to get one. Ended up finding one near Lansing. Need to get a few things and clean it a bit. Paul was kind enough to stop over yesterday. He's a great source of information and help. I really enjoyed his company and advice - Thanks Paul

[dubfreak1]

Feb 24, 2012 18:57:05 GMT -5 67type1 said:

with a 76mm crank; how much clearancing needs to be done? What type of rods are you going to use? Thanks

The engine has stock 311B VW rods in it and the clearancing was minimal with the 74mm crank. The 76mm hasn't been fitted yet, but I'll keep you posted.

[67type1]

Rudy's stroked engine got me thinking... so going with a 76mm crank is an option. If I go this route and use 44 IDF's what jet/venturi sizes should I start with? Keep in mind this will be a street set-up, not for the track. Probably will go with the same cam as Rudy & Mike suggested, a W120.

Waiting on a bottoming tap to finish tapping the oil journal access ports (want to make sure I get them super clean and inspect them).

I'd also like to go with a 1 /1/2 qt sump. Let me know which one(s) are good and which to stay away from.

Thanks

[MadMike]

Ballpark jetting ;D
50-55 Idles
135-150 mains,,,I ended up running 155's ;D
200 airs
32-34 vents
F 11 tubes
As for good sumps,I use Bergs and china junk ;D Just clean the crap out of them,Madmike

[67type1]

Thanks Mike! I appreciate all the info and help.

This long-term project is eating away my short-term $$$. I ordered some parts. Went with the 76mm C/W forged crank, so it looks like a 2109 is in my future ;D

[Ruffuss]

Never ending isn't it? It only gets worst!

[67type1]

Curious to know what people are using to seal threads. I've used teflon tape and the white thread sealer in the past, but I'm always looking for suggestions. I also have this red Loctite refrigerant thread sealer that is rated for 500psi and 300degF - never used on automotive applications though.

Let me know what you think and what's worked for you.

Thanks

p.s. I'll be using aluminum pipe plugs

[MadMike]

Hey Ray, I've never had any issues with threads ,but with oil pump covers seeping I'd try Locktite thread sealer,that red stuff is tuff(Impossible) to get back apart without heat ;D

[81pumagtc]

Ray:

The stuff you want is not what you think. Permatex 577 thread sealant is designed specifically for coarse, non-pipe thread joints.

Loctite red is not a thread sealant, it is designated as a thread locker. Any real sealant is just by gunking up the threads. The same thing is true about Teflon sealants. They are designed to work by being compressed in pipe threaded joints. They are not designed for standard threaded joints.

577 is an acrylic based compound that actually seals. It does have to "dry" or harden, and the threads should be clean. I have always used Brakleen or something like that.

It's about $15 for a 50ml tube. If you need some, let me know. I do have some, and 50ml is more than anyone would use in a lifetime.


Dave Riedle