Crap Crap Crap!!!!!!!! HELP!!!!!!

[jiberjaber18]

Got a 1600 case that the head bolt broke off flush with the case ... anyone have an idea on how to get it out without damaging the case???

Pics @ s1371.photobucket.com/user/Jason_Vanlandingham/library/Sand%20Rail

Thanks guys and have a good day

Jason 

[Ruffuss]

I've had some success with E-Z out's in small engines? Make sure you drill small and work up to dia. of the easy-outs first or second step. Hardest part is centering the drilled hole in the stud to be removed. Again start small and work up to the dia. needed and take your time.

[bren]

I had an exhaust stud removed that broke like this. They welded a nut to the end of the stud and turned it out.
Of course it took multiple tries. But the heat from the welder does also help loosen it up.

[81pumagtc]

I agree with Bren, take it somewhere and have a nut welded on. The heat from the weld will expand the case and help break it free, since the case will expand at a greater rate than the bolt will.

I have tried the acre extractor method, but have never been successful with it, but as Kenn mentioned, it's hard to get the drill started, and you do not want to get this screwed up and damage the threads. There are other methods to do this such as EDM to destroy the metal leaving the material intact, but that is usually reserved for removing broken hardened drill bits, and hardened screw extractors. Believe me, your bank account would suffer. I had it done in California and they did a great job on a Ducatti head, but it cost a quarter of the cost of a new, bare head.

You might check with Steven (VDub63) to see if he could do it, he is an absolutely fabulous welder.


Dave Riedle

[rwk]

I have the equip to remove, I can set up in mill and drill out could also put in case saver if needed, have EDM but yes thats last resort I will have to use it if I break the drill! If you try to drill and break it its your dime! I have done dozens of studs mostly exaust, PM me if need help with it.
rwk

[jiberjaber18]

Thanks for the advice guys... I will try and have a guy I know weld a nut onto the bolt if that doesnt work I will contact you rwk... just didnt want to try something and it not work 

[rwk]

yea, welding that close to cyl sealing surface it may get scared /damaged then you may have to deck the case, otherwise leaking case.
rwk

[clintonddk]

If its apart, I would have it decked anyways. I always remove the stud, it just makes the case easier to clean and freshen up.

[jiberjaber18]

Well I'm just going to have to throw this case away because the sump is corroded.... dang

[blue71]

Why? If the sump area isn't totally gone and only pitted you can use aluminum epoxy patch, something from the Devcon line, or the correct version of JB weld to remedy the issue. There are probably plenty of samba threads about such a problem. I didn't see photos of this sump area in your album to make a better assessment. Prepping it well is very important before putting the material on and then again after to make all surfaces level for sealing.

I've used JB weld on a case in the oil pump region for some dents/chunks taken out by a previous owner when trying to pull the pump. There were some chips and dents on the oil sump area as well. Those were the only issues on a STD/STD case that I had, so I figured may as well go with it.

ZERO leaks from those repaired areas so far after a few thousand miles. I built the engine when I was probably 22. I'm 26 now.


I have another STD case in my junk, not sure if it needs align bored or not but it also has an iffy sump area that I'll repair and use one day. Though fixing the broken loop for the oil cooler bolt will be a bit harder because a stack of heads fell and broke it off.

There's also POR marine epoxy that works well for some things. The main problem you will have is making sure the sump is clean.

[MadMike]

Sometimes u can epoxy a deep sump on them and hope u don't have to rebuild it EVER again
OR throw it in the Bon-fire( think Miniature SUN, it will light up the sky for 4 miles ) but don't EVER try and put it out with water!!!

[Ruffuss]

If you going to throw it away..........throw it this way!!

[jiberjaber18]

I have just been told by multiple people that it is to bad... I will post on my archive on photo bucket... please let me know if you think I can save it.

I'll try and post photo later tonight.

Thanks
Jason

[jiberjaber18]

Ok got the photos up @ s1371.photobucket.com/user/Jason_Vanlandingham/library/The%20Good%20Volks?sort=3&page=1 Please let me know if you guys think that it can be saved... willing to give it a shot by dont want to waste my time if its to bad

[blue71]

Sadly the rot has eaten into the area for the thread studs too much. After cleaning the metal to get a good bonding surface you would be into all the studs, or past them. Then your plate sealing surface would be essentially all gone and have to be remade out of the epoxy and tapped for new studs. That would be way more time intensive than anticipated on my end. I was hoping it was only some pitting that caused some irregularities in the sealing surface that could be filled and sanded like I experienced. It's a good candidate for a table, stroker clearancing practice, or a fire starter though.