motor questions, pls help!

[bigalvb]

Hello all. I have a beautiful 70 with a transplanted Saab V4 water-cooled setup. Looks GREAT and runs OK but I am getting the itch to convert to an air cooled setup.
Well, I have several important questions.
First off, I think I want between a 1600-1776 dual port with hydraulic lifters and remote oil filtration. Is that a dependable fairly streetable combination? If so, anyone got any ideas where I can find something nice and fairly cheap?
Secondly, my motor compartment has been cut to fit the Saab. Will it matter if the original seal around the motor can't be made to happen for cooling purposes? I don't care about heat in the car, btw. The car already has hood standoffs for increased cooling into the rngine compartment.
Anything else I need to be thinking of? Sounds like my hardest part will be removing all the work the builder did; ie, radiator, hoses, etc.
I hope to hear from some of you gurus out there. Really want to keep the car and return it to somewhat original since its in such great shape.

[MadMike]

You shoudn't have over heating problems with a 1,6-1.7 I have a 2.3 and no problems and I have stand offs also, no seal, and all i run is a stock doghouse w/full flow oiling,Why do u want hydraulics? I adjust my vavles like once a year and half the time there spot on!!! Madmike

[ghiastein]

Sorry no go with hydraulic lifters unless you went with a type 4 engine with a 2.0 liter 1978-1979 engine from a Bus or a Type 4. The installation will not be easy but can be done. But why do you want Hydraulic Lifters?

I would recommend using all the correct tin with correct seal because your engine would run cooler. What I would do is cut the rear lip seal area from a donor bug and weld into place. If you are missing any correct tin just ask we all have extras.

It may be easier and cheaper just to purchase a turn key 1600 or 1776 engine unless you have all of the bits ready to go.

Both the 1600cc and the 1776 engines are excellent engines you may want to stay away from a 1970 year 1600cc engine because they run single port heads and are not dual ports.

If you need help or more questions just ask.

[bigalvb]

I also have a thread like this on the Samba under late model. They recommend I keep my setup but I don't understand it and I think I need better cooling. You can see pics on the Samba in the thread and see what I mean about whats been removed.
I guess I would really like it if a few knowledgeable VW people would ck it out and let me know the straight skinny. If anyone's local its always sitting out in the special garage I built just for it. I don't know how or how much its been lowered or anything. Would like to convert the front drums to discs, etc.
Well, if anyone can help, I'd appreciate it. If you want more pics let me know and I have a photobucket account but for someone to talk to me in person would be best for me to explain things.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[bren]

Where are you located?

[ghiastein]

I looked at your posting on thesamba and all that I have to say is wow. You have a very nice watercooled installation job done. The reason that the other forum was telling you to keep it the way it was because a lot of stuff was cut removed and new was welded in than painted. After looking at the pictures it would be a large job to go back to stock. Here are the pictures from thesamba.com







personally I like the trick gauges mounted in the engine compartment.

[Chris]

I have always loved that car, personally I would love to have my futur watercooled setup look that clean.

[jmallen05]

If I remember correctly he is in the allendale area but don't quote me. Is there a problem with the engine in it right now? That is a big job to change it back over, someone has a lot of time into that car. When you had it for sale did you have anyone interested? I'm not sure what you have into it, but your going to have alot more into it to change it back over to AC, you'll have atleast 1200 into a turn key alone. I'm with the guys on thesamba and keep it the way it is. Besides its a one of a kind and if it runs right I'm sure its pretty qiuck. Nice car by the way.

jerry

[jmallen05]

Also I have a buddy thats missing the breast plate and the two tins on the side of the engine and that car runs really hot after a long drive, I mean hot. Without those tins in place the heat from the engine stays in the engine bay, the standoffs would help but I'm with AJ and strongly recommend getting all the tins back in. I would also say it has drop spindles and one outer click out back.


jerry

[dubfreak1]

I've seen your car driving around in Holland a couple of times. Very nice! It would seem that the most practical thing to do would be to just find another car, rather than un-do and re-do all of the metal work. However, maybe you can find a Saab 96 owner that wants the engine bad enough to make it worthwhile. Having all the tin in place is necessary for longevity. I too, would stay away from hydraulic lifters. Maybe you could find a core motor at Lansing Show or the Bug Run and build it yourself and be ready for whatever way you go. Whatever happens, it is good to have you here with the GoodVolks.

[bigalvb]

Yes, I am in Allendale, real close to 68th. Would love to have someone mechanically inclined (esp w/ VWs) come over and take a look at her and give me some ideas.
The car, if in neutral, has a starter switch in the back. All gauges work but the dummy light for the oil pressure came on a year ago and I don't know why. Very frustrating. But it has great oil pressure per the guages, one up front, one in the back.
I want to put a real carpet kit in it, it has some rubbery vinyl thing on the floor now.
It pops out of first at low speeds when coasting, what could that be?
I want to swap out the front drums to disc but don't know what kit I need or if I need to change out the brake fluid reservoir.
Guys on thesamba are recommending I wrap the entire exhaust with wrap and not just the muffler.
Anyone willing to help out would be appreciated. At least let me know what I've got which I guess is pretty unique.
BTW if you want more pics its on eBay til tomorrow or I have a photobucket.
Thanks guys, appreciate the good advice. I want to drive it a lot more next summer; daily on nice days if possible...

[bigalvb]

Oh, I was going to say that the builder traced out every electrical circuit in the car and put it on paper just like in a Chilton's manual--very well done so it could help somebody that actuallly understands that in repairing it as well. But it doesn't do me too much good, unfortunately:-(

[Ruffuss]

Great looking V-dub, I'm with the guys keep it as it is, unless there is an engine issues, I for one wouldn't mess with it. I just (last winter) rebuilt the engine in " Ruffuss" my 73 Type 181 Thing it is now a 1776cc with 044 heads and counterweighed billet crank and I'm very happy with that choice, but I'm here to tell you, you'll have a bunch into it even if you do it yourself and have most parts already gathered. A Scat turnkey is going to set you back $4,000 or so depending on extras, same with an engine built by someone other then yourself. You could talk to Greg. Seems to be a sweet ride I not one for such a mod but if its already done leave it the way it is. And find something closer to your wants already done or in project form. give me a PM maybe some of us could come take a look at what you have and what you think you want. Later Kenn

[clintonddk]

Why did you wrap the muffler? Looks like it is ceramic coated to me. Is the rest of the header ceramic coated? Ceramic coated headers look nice and also cool nicely there is no reason to wrap them besides the wrap will draw and keep in water. I have herd of horror stories of people unwrapping their headers to find nothing underneath.
Nice Looking Ride ;D

[bigalvb]

The muffler was wrapped when I bought it and the shop that replaced it with the one you now see just transferred the wrap over. I am almost positive the new muffler is not coated based on the price I paid. I was thinking about moving the muffler out to the outher edge of the body like I see on the magazine cars and then coating it myself to help with heat.
The car does not get driven in the rain so I'm not too concerned about moisture and the wrap although I understand that concern.
My main concern is heat it just seems to get too hot in stop and go although its never overheated YET.
I keep thinking about plumbing in a new radiator in the front spare tire well with a fan on it and figuring that will help much more.
I think it has an oil cooler on it but don't know if it works.
Just need someone mechanically minded to look it over without paying shop prices! It was obviously not just thrown together...