bill
25hp
Posts: 16
Joined: Oct 20, 2010 19:05:55 GMT -5
|
Post by bill on Oct 24, 2010 16:08:52 GMT -5
It seems that the consensus is that most of the new carbs are junk, and may themselves have to be rebuilt within months of use. Unless someone can attest to a particular brand being a good buy, I have been staying away from making the decision to purchase one.
|
|
|
Post by 81pumagtc on Oct 24, 2010 20:28:47 GMT -5
Don't know about that. I thought it was cheap aftermarket carbs, not OEM replacements.
Maybe VW stuff just stinks. Much seems to have been made in China.
I know that when I replaced the Motorcrafts on the SAABs through the years they were great, and the Solex carbs on the Benzes always solved the problems. My experience with OEM stuff has always been good. Now performance stuff is a whole other matter...
Much of that stuff seems to be really bad. I use Webber IDFs, but fully admit they run really well, but rich, and are not very economical. Hard to start in the cold too, but do settle down after a few minutes.
I might do a little research, however, to see if your problem is endemic to the car, and what folks did to make it better. My '73 and '74 SAABs used a horrible valve that retarded the carb when it was cold, and advanced it when it was warm. Somehow this was tied to the opening of the choke, too. I have actually heard that it worked, and worked well, but have never actually seen it or experienced it. Out of my 5 cars, none ever worked, even on the 12,000 mile Sonett.
Dave
|
|
vdubdriver
1600dp
Posts: 509
Joined: May 18, 2010 17:41:47 GMT -5
|
Post by vdubdriver on Oct 26, 2010 15:10:37 GMT -5
I'll second that. The information for the 34-PIC-3 carb (which is stock on a '73) on this website is basically what the Bentley manual says. www.vw-resource.com/vw-resource.com_non_ssl/34pict3.htmlwww.vw-resource.com/vw-resource.com_non_ssl/carb_41.html#generalI own a '73 Super Beetle, though it's been 10 years since I tuned the 34-PIC-3. I was successful with those tuning instructions. For those instructions to be successful, the carb has to be a good candidate. The Volume Control Screw is basically a 'needle' valve. If the valve seat is worn or enlarged, you won't be able to tune it. If I remember correctly, there is also a rubber O-ring on the Volume Control Screw; which may need replacing. As someone else suggested, the Jets may need to be replaced, but stock sizes would be appropriate.
|
|
MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
|
Post by MadMike on Oct 27, 2010 8:28:46 GMT -5
Bill,The Brosel Brazilian carb I had was Junk even after rebuilding it I got worst milage then Dual Weber 44's That was on a 1641 and after switching to an old German carb and going through it It ran great
|
|
bill
25hp
Posts: 16
Joined: Oct 20, 2010 19:05:55 GMT -5
|
Post by bill on Oct 27, 2010 19:30:54 GMT -5
Precisely what I mean.
I went over my car the other evening, just to recheck my settings. The next night, to my surprise, the car ran great. The next night, I checked everything again and discovered that I had left the wire of the choke, thus the car had a mostly closed choke and was running rich. Or maybe my car is running lean when it is hooked up and liked the extra richness it was getting with the choke closed.
So, with that in mind, do I need to adjust one of the screws differently, or is one of my jets incorrect?
|
|
MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
|
Post by MadMike on Oct 28, 2010 8:34:13 GMT -5
I really can help from my end I'm a hands on Mechanic ;D But I did see a great deal On a set of 40 IDF's on theSamba look under Porsche parts page 2
|
|