krojack
36hp
Posts: 36
Joined: Apr 6, 2010 19:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by krojack on Apr 26, 2010 18:16:53 GMT -5
Well, The good news is, the Thing is in the shop to get the bodywork and painting done. The bad news is, It is bleeding like a pig. I've been narrowing down the oil leaks (pushrod tubes replaced, valve cover gaskets, sump cover, etc). and it appears the last one which is getting progressively worse is the rear main. On top of that, while underneath, I discovered that the stock thing skid bars, one is destroyed, meaning the case took one hell of a hit at one time. At this point, I think I will go with a new longblock after it gets back since either the m ain journals, or the case is done for.
My questions are
1. How big to go? I'd love to have more oomph then the 1600cc DP has. but not sure whether to go 1835 or 1915 or 2110. I don;t need top speed, i just want it to get to 55 quicker.
2. Where to go? Need a reputable builder locally and would love a solid recommendation from a customer.
thank you all! Jake
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krojack
36hp
Posts: 36
Joined: Apr 6, 2010 19:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by krojack on Apr 26, 2010 18:44:43 GMT -5
Also forgot, 3. at what displacement does it become necessary to replace the stock solex with duals, since that will add a hefty additional cost to the build.
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Ruffuss
1600dp
Posts: 2,795
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 19:13:16 GMT -5
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Post by Ruffuss on Apr 26, 2010 19:47:20 GMT -5
I ran Ruffuss with the stock re-jetted carb with 1776cc(69 stock stroke x 90.5 mm. pistons) with 044 heads and it ran much better, I had trouble doing 60mph with the tired stock 1600. With the 1776 80mph was no problem and ask the guys it would smoke the tires with little to no trouble.
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Post by bren on Apr 26, 2010 23:04:21 GMT -5
Greg Hudson rebuilt my motor. It was a 1776 in a bug. It was a nice motor size. Peppy but not over the top. Stock brakes felt fine with it. I had dual Scat solex carbs and never really liked them. I was not good at tuning them. In a thing there is more room to work on duals than in a bug so I think they would be easier to work with for you. If you go duals I would go to webers or Dellorto's with a better linkage. I was building a 2110 before I sold my recent sandrail and bought a new one that was ready to go. Greg did the machine work on the case and the heads.
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krojack
36hp
Posts: 36
Joined: Apr 6, 2010 19:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by krojack on Apr 27, 2010 18:55:20 GMT -5
thank you for the responses, looks like I am going with a 1776cc motor, Where is greg hudson located? I have talked briefly with Jim Whelpley and he is working an estimate up. also going with dual carbs, any opinions there on what to go with/avoid?
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Ruffuss
1600dp
Posts: 2,795
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 19:13:16 GMT -5
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Post by Ruffuss on Apr 27, 2010 19:13:24 GMT -5
Weber 40 IDF's
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Post by bren on Apr 27, 2010 20:13:47 GMT -5
Check your PM's.
Who is Jim Whelpley? I don't recognize the name.
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Post by dunedudex4 on Apr 30, 2010 19:45:17 GMT -5
I think it is Jim from Nashville??
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MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by MadMike on May 1, 2010 7:24:45 GMT -5
Jake, Here's a great combo for you,like the guys say a 1776cc,W110 cam(good lowend and Midrange)Stock rockers or 1:25's If you feel it needs it, I'd see if/what your 'Butt Dyno' thinks? a pair of 40 IDF's "NOT the POS HPMX's",Fluff&Buff stock size heads and up the CR a cpl.points, a small 1 1/2 qt sump to protect the bearings,and a true 1 1/2 Merged header w/QP muffler,If it were mine I'd get the rotating mass balanced too they last longer, but u don't have too. This combo will give you great Get-upN-go plus net you 30+mpg if u can keep your foot out of it ;D Madmike
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krojack
36hp
Posts: 36
Joined: Apr 6, 2010 19:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by krojack on May 1, 2010 12:35:42 GMT -5
No luck finding IDF's but I did pick up a set or DRLA's today that were complete units pulled from a 1600cc. At the moment, i think I am going to pull the motor when it gets back from paint, find the oil leaks, seal it up and then mount the new carbs to see how far that gets me. then maybe a 1776 over the fall I can build up. I have a feeling i might need some help dialing these in.
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Post by dunedudex4 on May 2, 2010 4:15:08 GMT -5
Those carbs come out of Hudsonville?? Thanks Dave T
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krojack
36hp
Posts: 36
Joined: Apr 6, 2010 19:03:16 GMT -5
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Post by krojack on May 18, 2010 17:02:05 GMT -5
Alrighty, I need a little schooling on fuel pressure. My thing is still in getting paintwork done, but when it gets back I want to be ready.
Currently I am running the stock 34-pict3 and stock mechanical fuel pump (newer style)
I am hoping to when it gets back from the shop 1. take the engine out, and take the top end down 2. Replace all of the oil seals, make sure I don't have any cracks in the case 3. Mount my 40 dellortos (pictured above)
My question to the goodvolks gods is.. Will the stock mech. fuel pump be able to keep up with running these two beasts? If they won't, what is a good electric solution out there? I've heard different opinions on samba over what fuel pressure is optimal, and where to mount an electric pump, etc.
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Post by 81pumagtc on May 18, 2010 17:37:09 GMT -5
I have dual 40 Webers on the Puma and my mechanical fuel pump works just fine.
Dave Riedle
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vw1s
1600dp
I am Jack's Medulla Oblongata...
Posts: 1,841
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 5:16:14 GMT -5
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Post by vw1s on May 18, 2010 20:31:14 GMT -5
Stock mechanical pump should work fine, set the pressure to about 3psi.
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clintonddk
1600dp
Posts: 755
Joined: Oct 7, 2008 18:16:45 GMT -5
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Post by clintonddk on May 18, 2010 20:31:40 GMT -5
Stock fuel pump will work just fine on a low RPM engine. If you plan on screaming that thing up to 8000RPM then you will want to put a good fuel pump on something like a holly blue pump. The other nice thing about a converting to a electronic fuel pump is if you wire it to its own switch you can turn off the pump and run the carbs dry for winterizing your car and then un-hook a fuel line and drain the fuel tank if you need to remove it. Then come spring you just turn on the pump and fill the carbs up with out running down the battier.
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