brad2thabone
1500sp
Posts: 137
Joined: Feb 7, 2011 20:27:40 GMT -5
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Post by brad2thabone on Feb 9, 2011 12:56:55 GMT -5
I saw this on volksrods. Beautiful car, the paint is slick.
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 9, 2011 21:39:22 GMT -5
ok, been spending some good time in the garage the last few weeks, just bouncing around everywhere on the car. Here's where I'm at, where I'm confused, etc.  The fuel diagram for the Turbo set-up..  The fitting on my tank (Standard tanks have a threaded fitting here, to match T fitting shown. I'm going to have a 12" braided line made up, buy a fitting to match up w/ the line that can be welded to tank, and plug factory fitting. T fitting will then be mounted on firewall below   I still neeed to decide where best to mount the fuel pump because as shown in the Turbo fuel system diagram, I need to mount a filter in this area of the firewall also.   I also need to sleave the top of the air struts about 1.5" to keep from rubbing on the body. This should also shorten the maximum drop  (am I correct on this theory ??) so the car can be a max. lowest hight of like 3/4" below the frame head. I also would like to incorporate some bumpstops that come into play just before the air strut bottoms out the bags to help distribute the ride. The bumpstops would also prevent the car from bottoming out. Right now it will lay the framehead on the ground and squeeze the steering box arm up against the control arm.   And another shot of the ride height profile of the front and that d**n sexy curved windshield  |
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 9, 2011 21:42:01 GMT -5
oh yeah, and can anybody tell me where all these basic wires go ? 1) battery ground prob. just goes to one of the 2 body bolts in the battery area ? 2) recommend the best bettery box / strap / etc. 3) The positive battery terminal. One of the two go to the starter solenoid, the other ? alternator ? (with another attachment ?)  |
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Post by ghiastein on Mar 10, 2011 7:32:41 GMT -5
One Positive lead goes from the Battery Positive to the Large Nut on the starter. The other Positive lead goes from the Battery Positive to the B+ terminal on either the Alternator or Voltage Regular.
The Negative / Ground strap goes from the Battery Negative end to a SOLID Chassis connection.
Remember to add a ground strap from the Transmission to a SOLID Chassis Connection TOO.
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MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by MadMike on Mar 10, 2011 8:16:39 GMT -5
I always run the negitive battery cable to the Bottom starter stud/nut,hopefully your running Solid mounts with a Turbo Motor?
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 10, 2011 10:28:38 GMT -5
So what's considered a solid chassis mount within the 12" or so length of the ground strap ? The stud for the battery hold down ?
And yeah mike, def. running a mid mount and my frame horns are reinforced with the air ride bracket above.
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MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by MadMike on Mar 10, 2011 17:39:53 GMT -5
Like I said Eric,Just get longer cable and bolt it directly to the starter,I won't use the braded unsheilded ones,Madmike
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Post by ghiastein on Mar 11, 2011 8:40:16 GMT -5
MadMike's suggestion is good to run the Negative down to the Starter hold down bolt.
Before I relocated the Battery under the rear seat I had the Negative battery cable running to one of the nuts at the generator stand. Now I have the Negative side bolted to one of the frame to body bolts under the rear seat area.
On my Bus both of my Negative Battery Cables are connected to a 8mm Bolt that is attached to the frame.
Just find a CLEAN 8mm stud or bolt that is connected to a good solid piece of metal. Before you attach the battery cable remove the paint around the connection point to get good metal to metal contact.
Frame, engine, transmission are all excellent places to run the negative battery cable to.
Just stay away from using sheet metal screws or connecting it to engine tin. Remember all of the electrical system runs through that connection so make it a good and secure one.
Yea stay away from unshielded braided cables for Battery connections. If they vibrate and touch metal it could spark and sparks near the battery are bad. The only place I use the braided cable is for the transmission to body strap.
Don't use the battery hold down screw for the negative battery cable connection. That is the most nastiest dirtiest place on most cars.
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MadMike
1600dp
Posts: 3,277
Joined: Oct 30, 2008 10:21:12 GMT -5
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Post by MadMike on Mar 11, 2011 9:11:49 GMT -5
I used a braded ground on Black Ice and one day the starter was acting up and before i new it the braded stainless brake line was touching the ground & burnt a hole thew the line :oand Did u know brake Fluid is HIGHLY flamable ;D ;D
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 14, 2011 22:17:10 GMT -5
Trans / axles installed Oil Cooling fan Some electrical progress and I'd like to go with a steering wheel as below... nobody who sells this crap knows anything about them when I call, stupid kids entering orders, like what adapter for my car, etc.....anyone ever use one of these ?     and I need to track down a new ignition housing.....like to find one with an original key ? anyone ?  |
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Post by bren on Mar 14, 2011 22:22:39 GMT -5
Have you tried airkewld for the steering wheel mount info?
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 16, 2011 20:38:10 GMT -5
Bren, no.... Airkewld has a cool selection of steering wheels, adapters, and actualy knows a single d**n thing about them ?? ok, still looking for ignition housing Part # 111 005 851N Realized once the trans was installed that the oil cooler interferes with the shift fork. Had to drop down "front" of oil cooler and raise up "rear" to make everything clear. This also moves the unit even further away from other potential chaffe hazards from the bolts holding up the air ride bracket. Isn't there a tube that the throttle cable slides through ? If not, there will be, the cable needs to be coerced around the oil cooler just a bit.   To facilitate the need for a supply / return line for the Turbo, and much increased fuel demand, a fitting will be welded onto the bottom of the tank, the puny stock tube piece cut off / closed up. Then a braided line will from from the tank approx. 3" to an AN fitting T which will then split off for the fuel suply line and fuel return line. The new fitting is a little less than twice the size of the stock fuel line fitting !!!!   and I've ordered trans mid mount, body to engine seal, fuel tank sending unit seal, hoses from brake fluid res/ to master cylinder, etc. etc. etc. |
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 19, 2011 12:36:41 GMT -5
ok, just realized that I need the firewall seal also, but, which way does the body to engine seal get installed Thanks...  |
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Post by bren on Mar 19, 2011 19:01:55 GMT -5
The T shape part fits in the channel. The hook that is under your thumb in the photo faces inwards toward the motor. The lip of the tins fin in that hook. Does that make sense?
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Post by rochester73super on Mar 19, 2011 22:38:15 GMT -5
perfect. Thanks Bren.
Next basic yet unknown to me question ? what is the best way to strap the battery down ? My pans are original, still have threaded stud and "bracket" to hold down front edge of battery.....
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(am I correct on this theory ??) so the car can be a max. lowest hight of like 3/4" below the frame head. I also would like to incorporate some bumpstops that come into play just before the air strut bottoms out the bags to help distribute the ride. The bumpstops would also prevent the car from bottoming out. Right now it will lay the framehead on the ground and squeeze the steering box arm up against the control arm.
