Dans building a 2276 big ol motor

[dansam]

Oh... Um,,, Ok maybe not in the wheel well.

[clintonddk]

Dave I do see where you are coming from but I will tell ya that my oil filter has been in my wheel well for over eight years. I have it hooked up to where the bumper mounts. Funny thing is the two out of the three bolt holes line up to where the bump mounts. I can never recall noticing any chipped paint on any of the oil filters I have removed. The filter actually sits off to the side line of the tire and to me if something comes off the tire hard enough to Peirce an oil filter wonted it be strong enough to go through a finder? I am not saying that it can't happen I am just saying that I have never herd of it happening.
One point I would like to stress on mounting of an oil filter or cooler is to not mount it any higher then your engine. What will happen if you do is the oil will drain back into the crank case after you shut it down giving you a false dip stick reading. I see this done a lot on buggys.

[81pumagtc]

I just couldn't do it myself. Too many bad things could happen.

Piercing the oil filter case, having the oil filter fail, or having a line loosen or fail by a tire seems like a really bad idea to me...especially when the car is going to be used for a little of everything. I would also be a bit concerned about getting dirt or debris in the engine if the filter to filter mount is not completely clean of dirt flung up by the tire when changing the oil filter.

Just seems like good tradecraft to me. Oil filter canisters are much thinner than a fender.

I am a bit more sensitive to this than most. I had debris kicked up from a front tire sever my right rear brake line at speed in a race car in Ohio. Got a MRI, CAT scan, broken sternum and other inconveniences for my trouble. I know it's not the same, but I hit some sort of debris on a "clean" racetrack, not a road filled with crap that has fallen off a rusted out Olds.

You are absolutely right about mounting the filter and cooler at sump level if possible, or put fill the engine with the correct amount of oil, including what is held by the lines and filter, and mark the dipstick. We usually had up to 3/4 of a quart extra in the filer, lines and cooler, sometimes even a full quart with a cartridge type filter. It's not as important on the track, where you will often change the oil between runs, but would image that it could be critically important at the dunes.

I think a shield would help protect the filter, but the whole idea just gives me the heebie jeebies.


Dave

[clintonddk]

That's all good insight Dave. For one my oil filter is in the rear of the car behind the tire. All my oil lines go directly from the other side of the fire wall to the filter then back to the other side of the fire wall plus they are all stainless steel A&N lines. I have had the rubber one burst or fly off not any fun and costly. No line is anywhere near a tire. Yes, oil filters are thinner then our finders but they are round so I would think that things would bounce off rather then pierce.
I would say that wrecking my car is one of my most feared thoughts. I have to much time into this thing and would hate to see it wrecked. I just read in Hot VWs where the car Blackline a 57 bug had crashed and rolled several times while just taking it for a test drive. They had crossed a railroad track at 50mph and lost control of the car. They were preparing this car for a 36hp challenge. The car is totaled which means another Oval bites the dust.

[dansam]

Yea I just found where I can get a free remote filter and oil cooler setup from the gal I redid the porsche kit car. So while I probably dont "need" the oil cooledr for free, why not? Ill probably find a fun place to put them during assy, probably in the trans area.

Doing lotsa reading on this build. Learned lotsa tips. Cant wait to get started. heads and block should be here by the end of the week. Then going to talk to Barnums to see what kinda deal he can get me on the internals (in comparison to getting them from brothers in Ca. should save enough on shipping to make up for the diff in price Im thinking).

[clintonddk]

I like that idea Dansam, keep the local guy in business and the money in the area.

[81pumagtc]

Here here!

Sounds like a plan to me.


Dave

[MadMike]

I got a great deal on a used 84mm crank from him with the Porsche rods See if he has any good used welded O'l German ones? I know a place in Midland that will turn it if needed,Madmike

[dansam]

Hmmmmm Ill have to check on the used aspect. If I can go german that would be the best.

[clintonddk]

I hate to pass this along because I want it but just don't have the money yet. This is a great deal. If you were to have it built it would run over $700.00

www.cal-look.com/forum/index.php/topic,30904.0.html

[dansam]

Tempting but... no. To many possibilities for failure on that on.
Going to go new or its used but in a motor. Dont want a rotating part that has been used a paper weight for lord knows how long. At least I want it from someone I know (like Barnum or Goerge) that I trust.

Dan

[dansam]

whatcha think? needs to be rebuild though

www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=807318

whatcha think about those empi knockoffs?

[bren]

Check out the price of the rebuild kit before you buy.

[dansam]

Looks like 35 bux.

Talked with Barnums and he is getting me prices as we speak. After that I may not have money for carbs till spring..

[dansam]

Got Heads today!! Still waiting on the case (in transit) Overall I like what I see. I am not thrilled about two of the spark plug holes the threads look goobered and may need to be redone. Also there is a small mark (micro crack? between the valves in that small taint area. Dont know what to make of it but Im going to have someone look at it.





my elephant feet rocker adjusters.

my 2 qt sump

Also got the rocker bar assy.

Still working with barnums on the rotating assy, we are close to an agreement. hes like 200.00 away from my budget. I asked him to look at some used options.