Zacks first VW

[ZackAttack]

This is my first project (VW). Theres a lot of work to be done.
Got to working on the bug today. Put some gas in the fuel tank. The bug starts up, but you have to keep your foot on the gas, had a friends dad take the carb apart clean it. Everything looked good put it back on it keeps dying. If you keep the choke closed it runs just fine. New carb?

After putting 2 gallons in the tank looked under the car and saw something leaking, its fuel the hose clamp on the fuel line wasnt even tight. I tightened it up it was still leaking from farther up. So we drained the tank took it out, fliped it over and there were about seven spots on the tank of jb weld, all leaking. Im gonna have to get a new tank.

Once the tank was out looked at the brake resivor, its bone dry, and the brakeline going back to the rear brakes isnt even hooked up to the master cylinder, its just flappin in the breeze .

After starting it up noticed the the pushrod tubes are bent. Looks like someone hit a rock or something. There leaking like crazy, Those willl have to be replaced.

The gas pedal is funny, I'll push the gas then a couple seconds later it will respond. Then i'll take my foot off the gas and it acts like im still pushing on the gas and wont return right away. Maybe the cable is getting stuck in the tube? Is there any way to lube it? Should I buy a new acclerator cable.

Pics








Oh yeah. its a 1962. But has been converted to 12v. Thats a whole nother thread in itself. I was told its a 1600dp. I have no idea if thats true. From what I can find 1600 wasnt an option in 62. How do I find out what engine I have, so I can start ordering some parts.

[bren]

Hey Zach. Did you do a tune up at all before you tried running it. Hard to tell if you need a new carb or not without checking other stuff first. Timing can be off causing it to die. Point gap can make a big difference too.
Return of the gas pedal can be the spring on the carb. If it is old and stretched out you might need to replace that.
If you can tell me the number on the engine block I can look up the year for you.
Bummer about the gas tank. Should be able to find a used one, maybe even this weekend at George's or at the Vintage Festival in Plymouth. Are you going to go to either of those shows?
-Bren

[ZackAttack]

I dont have a vw book yet. How would I go about checking the timing.

Where would I look for the number on the engine block.

I probly should go to the shows I look more into them.

Thanks
Zack

[dansam]

Looks like a good starter project. Go get yourself a Muir vw for idiot's book then start having some fun. THe stalling is most likely a tune up issue (valves/timing/points ect ect). Brakes will be a little more work but still doable. push rod tubes are not a bad of a deal as they seem, you will need a torque wrench though. you will most likely be replacing the accel cable soon. when you do check the rout and yes grease it. Fuel tank can be had cheap if you go to the buggy barn in Vasser or find a parts car somewhere. Also the shows and other members can be a big help on this stuff. The motor most likely is a 1600 (or bigger) duel port. It was a very common swap. I can tell in the pics that it is a duel port. The size... well for the most part all duel ports are 1600 untill modified. You will never truly know till you rebuild it. I always say it is of sufficient size to move the car (till it is not and thats when you rebuild!).

Your going to have a blast getting it back on the road!!

Have fun! Get the book! Ask questions!

Dan

[ZackAttack]

Dan thanks for your help.
I'll go pck up the book, the only book I have is for baja bugs and buggies, Is the buggy barn like a shop or something?

But if i hold the choke closed the car will idle just fine. How would that have anything to do with timing or the points? (Remember im still learning)

[74vwbaja]

It looks like a real nice start to a nice baja.
As for the stalling it sounds to me like a carb issue. It may need to be rich'ened up. When the choke is on, it closes the air gap some to force more fuel into the motor, so if you richen the mixture up a bit, it might take care of that...
Thats my 2 cents.

edit: It might also be possible if the motor is bigger then a 1600dp, and if you have a stock carb, the carb may not supply enough fuel fast enough to keep the motor running.

[ZackAttack]

Thats what im thinking, im keeping the bug at my friends house, but if its a 1600 dp motor and a 28 PICT, or 30 PICT its prolly not getting enough fuel.

[ghiastein]

First of all your hose on the vacuum diaphragm on the distributor is going to the wrong spot on the carburetor. It needs to go on the upper driver side of the carburetor you have it on the retard side for the dual vacuum distributer. That could be your idle issue.

You have a 34 PICT-3 carburetor it works fine for a stock or mild engine as long as its set correctly.

[steve71westy]

Its hard to tell in the picture but I dont see a wire to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the left side of the carb if the solenoid is not energized the car wont idle

[steve71westy]

Sorry I did not read your post fully about it running ok with the choke on. Although if you are having to open the throttle to close the choke ( to get the small step cam on the left of the carb past the throttle stop) it could still be the solenoid as it only shuts fuel off to the idle circuit. My bus has a dual port with a 34 pict 3 and the wire was loose at the solenoid and it would do what you are describing when it was not making good contact

[dansam]

Glad my carbs dont have any of that electrical trickery, heck I dont even have a choke.

Dan

[steve71westy]

forunately it is a pretty simple circuit key on power to solenoid and choke key off no power

[ZackAttack]

There was no wire attatched to the carb. I dont know where it is. If I have to run another one where do I run it to. I'll move the vaccume line.

I looked for ID number on the engine. The only numbers I saw was under the cylinder heads. I could only make out the first two it was, 2M.

[steve71westy]

The wire goes on the " + " post on the coil (power from the ignition switch ) to the post on the solenoid and over to the choke. So they key "on" should power the coil , solenoid and choke


Steve G

[bren]

The block numbers are right where the generator stand mounts to the block. This will give us some info about the motor but obviously won't tell us if it has been rebuilt or not.